Whisk: a food blog

Monday, October 3, 2011

The Art of Brioche: A Buttery Indulgence Worth the Wait

If you're patient, in a few hours you can make brioche. You just need a teaspoon of yeast, a half dozen eggs, and almost half a pound of butter along with the usual breadlike suspects.

Brioche is classified as a viennoiserie (Viennese Specialties), which are baked goods made from a yeast-leavened dough that is enriched with milk, sugar, eggs, or butter. In this case, lots of eggs and butter. Brioche isn't a low-fat treat but an indulgence.

The trickiest part of this recipe is the dough's stickiness. But leave the pasty dough to the hook, forget the traditional, hand-kneading method, and go check your email. Then, while it's rising, do some gardening. And after you've formed the rolls, go downtown to buy a new gadget. Then eat some cake.

Original: "Qu'ils mangent de la brioche."- Marie Antoinette
Translation: "Let them eat rich, expensive, funny-shaped, yellow, eggy buns."
-Urban Legends

Tips for Perfect Brioche

1. Embrace the Stickiness: The dough will be sticky; let your mixer’s dough hook do the work.

2. Be Patient: Brioche takes time, but the slow rise develops flavor and texture.

3. Use Butter Generously: Don’t skimp—this is where brioche gets its magic.

Recipe: Brioche

Makes: 16 individual rolls

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons milk, warmed
1/4 oz package dried yeast
3 cups bread or all-purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
6 eggs, lightly beaten

3/4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 egg beaten and mixed with 2 tablespoons of water, for glaze

[You can find the recipe for Brioche in the book Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link).]

Instructions:

In a small bowl, proof the yeast in some warm milk. In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, whisk all the ingredients. Add the yeast mixture. Knead until the dough forms a smooth ball. In an oiled bowl, place the dough and cover. Let rise at room temperature for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until doubled in size.

Punch down. In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the room-temperature butter to the dough and knead until the dough is smooth again. Cover and let rest for about 5 minutes.

Form into rolls. Let rise for 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Preheat oven to 400°F. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool.

Here's a video showing how to make it by hand.

Tasting Notes
The crust on my brioche was nice and crunchy, but I should have pulled mine out of the oven sooner than I did. Overall, they have a nice texture and warming them in the microwave for about 10 seconds makes them even tastier.

Next Time
Puff Pastry in Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link) page 542

Links
La Tartine Gourmande: Simplest Brioche
Julia Child: Brioche Dough (video)
Dorie Greenspan: Brioche

::Whisk::
I'm baking my way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, I try to find a suitable substitution.

More to Explore:

Monday, September 26, 2011

Croissants: A Beginner's Journey to Parisian Perfection

Making croissants at home can seem daunting, but if you’ve mastered puff pastry, you’re halfway there! Croissants are essentially "baby" puff pastries—requiring fewer turns and an overnight rest. While they demand patience and practice, the reward is a flaky, buttery masterpiece that rivals the best Parisian bakeries.

My standards for croissants are high: I expect a rich, golden, crinkly surface; I expect it to explode (quietly) when bitten into; and I expect every crumb to be loaded with butter.

- Pam Frier, Times Columnist

Croissant-Making Simplified

1. Fewer Turns: Unlike puff pastry, croissants require fewer laminating folds, making the process more approachable.

2. Overnight Rest: Resting the dough in the refrigerator develops flavor and makes it easier to work with.

3. Practice Makes Perfect: Achieving that perfect flakiness takes time, but every attempt is deliciously rewarding.

Recipe: Croissants

Makes: 12-16

Ingredients:

1 pound all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/4 cups milk
1/2 ounce fresh yeast or 1/4 ounce dried yeast
1 1/3 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten

[You can find the recipe for Croissants in the book Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link).] You can watch this video to see the method: How to Make Croissants.

Tasting Notes
With all that butter and fresh dough, what's not to love about these croissants. I will keep practicing and aim for crumb-explosion perfection.

Croissant in Paris

Next Time
Brioche in Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link) page 430

Links
Food Timeline's Croissant History
Food & Wine: Lamination: The Art of the Perfect Croissant

Croissant in Paris

::Whisk::
I'm baking my way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, I try to find a suitable substitution.

More to Explore:

Monday, September 5, 2011

Chocolate Meringue Kisses with Mousse: A Simplified Concorde

For those who dream of mastering the intricate Concorde Cake but crave a simpler alternative, chocolate meringue kisses filled with mousse are the perfect solution. Inspired by Gaston Lenôtre's legendary dessert, these mini treats retain the decadence of the original without the complexity.

The real deal consists of layers of chocolate meringue and chocolate pudding with sticks of chocolate meringue to decorate the outside. It was created by the famous French pastry chef Gaston Lenôtre to celebrate the first flight of the Concorde. Or is it named after the Place de la Concorde in Paris?

The recipe for Lenôtre’s Concorde appears in Lenôtre's Desserts and Pastries (affiliate link). At age 14, Pierre Hermé started apprenticing with Lenôtre and a recipe for Concorde can also be found in Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé.

The Pastry Chef's Companion: A Comprehensive Resource Guide for the Baking
by Glenn Rinsky, Laura Halpin Rinsky

Someday, I’ll make this supersonic Concorde cake, but these little chocolate kisses were simple yet decadent.

Recipe: Chocolate Meringue Kisses with Mousse

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Chocolate Meringue: 1 cup confectioner’s sugar 6 tablespoons cocoa powder 5 egg whites ¾ cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Chocolate Mousse: 3½ ounces semi-sweet chocolate, cut into small pieces 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 5 tablespoons granulated sugar 2 egg yolks 4 egg whites
Confectioner’s sugar, for dusting

[You can find the recipe for Concorde (Chocolate Meringue Cake Filled with Chocolate Mousse) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) or here.]

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Meringue:

Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add sugar, beating until stiff, glossy peaks form.
Fold in the sifted cocoa powder gently to maintain the airy texture.
Pipe or spoon small mounds onto the baking sheet.
Bake for 1 hour, then turn off the oven and let the meringues cool completely inside.

2. Make the Chocolate Mousse:

Melt the dark chocolate and let it cool slightly.
Gently fold the whipped cream and vanilla extract into the chocolate until smooth.

3. Assemble the Kisses:

Pipe or spoon chocolate mousse onto the flat side of a meringue.
Top with another meringue to create a sandwich.

4. Chill and Serve:

Refrigerate the assembled kisses for at least 30 minutes before serving.

Tasting Notes
“I like the chewiness.”
“This is good; this is real good.”
“Can I have another?”
These were quotes from my three young taste testers.

Next Time
Croissants in Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection page 429

Links
Video: Chocolate Concorde cake recipe
Food & Wine: Concorde Cake
No Special Effects’ Concorde
Carnival’s Concorde Cake

::Whisk::
I'm baking my way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, I try to find a suitable substitution.

More to Explore:

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Lemon Ricotta Pancakes Recipe with Blueberry Syrup: A Tangy Breakfast Treat

Recipes are all about sharing. Sharing the method and technique, and ultimately sharing the food across the table with family and friends. I love getting recipe recommendations, and a friend shared this one with me.

Pancakes are a breakfast staple loved by all, but these Lemon Ricotta Pancakes take it to the next level with their tangy flavor and fluffy texture. Combining the zest and juice of fresh lemons, creamy ricotta cheese, and a medley of fresh berries, this recipe creates a delightful treat perfect for breakfast or brunch.

Cooking pancakes requires patience—heat management is key. Too hot, and you risk a burnt outside with an uncooked middle. Too low, and you’ll be waiting ages for those telltale bubbles to form. But with this recipe, you’ll master the art of pancakes in no time.

These fluffy lemon pancakes are elevated by a homemade blueberry syrup that’s sweet, tangy, and easy to prepare. The combination of flavors from lemons, raspberries, blueberries, and ricotta cheese will have you reaching for seconds. Make the batter the night before to save time, and you’ll never go back to pancake mixes again.

Recipe: Lemon Ricotta Pancakes

Makes: 4 to 6 pancakes (2 servings)

Ingredients:

3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup ricotta cheese
2 eggs
2/3 cup milk
1 lemon, zested and juiced
Butter, for griddle
1 (11-ounce) jar prepared lemon curd [I didn't use this]
Fresh raspberries, for garnish
Confectioners' sugar, for garnish

Click here for the recipe.

Recipe: Blueberry Syrup

Ingredients:

3 cups blueberries
1/2 cup maple syrup
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon cornstarch

Instructions:

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and stir occasionally. Simmer for about 2 minutes and set aside.

Make-Ahead Friendly: Prepare the batter ahead of time for a stress-free morning.

More to Explore:

Monday, August 15, 2011

Bottles & Bites on Natalie MacLean's Blog (August column)

My latest column on Natalie MacLean's blog is a pairing of Zinfandel and spicy BBQ sauce.
Check it out!

Monday, August 8, 2011

Gâteau Basque Recipe: A Classic Almond Pastry Cream Delight

Is it a cake or a pie? The Gâteau Basque blurs the lines between both, offering a crispy crust and a luscious almond-flavored pastry cream filling. If you love the rich, velvety texture of crème pâtissière, this traditional dessert from the Basque region of Spain is a must-try.

The Basque Country, situated between Spain and France, is known for its unique culinary traditions, and Gâteau Basque is one of its signature desserts. With its buttery crust and creamy almond filling, it’s a perfect balance of texture and flavor.

Despite its name, it's not really a gâteaux, or cake, but rather two layers of buttery, crumbly crust filled with pastry cream. As it bakes, the crust and filling meld into one delicious whole.
- Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table
by Suzanne Goin, Teri Gelber

Recipe: Gâteaux Basque (Almond-Filled Basque Cake)

Serves: 8

Ingredients:

Gâteaux Basque 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 3/4 cup cake flour 1 cup sugar Pinch salt 1 lemon, zested 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and softened 1 whole egg 2 egg yolks
Almond Pastry Cream 1 cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 egg yolks 1/4 cup sugar 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 ounce fine-ground almonds (about 1/4 cup)
1 egg, lightly beaten, for glazing Unsalted butter for pastry cream and tart pan

Instructions:

1 Prepare the Pastry Cream (Crème Pâtissière):

Heat the milk and vanilla in a saucepan until it reaches a boil.
In a stand mixer, whisk together egg yolks and sugar until smooth.
Gradually fold in flour and ground almonds.
Slowly drizzle the boiled milk into the yolk mixture while whisking continuously.
Return the mixture to the heat and bring it to a gentle boil, simmering for 5 minutes while stirring constantly.

2. Cool the Pastry Cream:

Pour the cream into a shallow pan, cover with plastic wrap, and optionally dot with butter to prevent a skin from forming.

3. Assemble the Gâteau Basque:

Use a food processor to prepare the dough for the crispy crust.
Layer the pastry cream filling inside the crust.

4. Bake:

Bake at 350°F for 50 to 60 minutes until the crust is golden and crisp.

You can find the recipe for Gâteaux Basque (Almond-Filled Basque Cake) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes
I loved the crust, but I would fill it with more than just almond pastry cream next time.

More Almond-Inspired Desserts
Ask Chef Dennis: Home » Recipes » Cake Recipes Gateau Basque {Basque Cake Recipe}
Epicurious: Gâteau Basque

Next Time
Meringue in Concorde (Chocolate Meringue Cake Filled with Chocolate Mousse) page 464

::Whisk::
I'm baking my way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, I try to find a suitable substitution.

More to Explore:

Monday, July 25, 2011

Charlotte aux Poires, Coulis de Framboise (Pear Charlotte with Raspberry Coulis)

Unlike last week's simple and delicious Oeufs à la Neige (Snow Eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise, today's recipe is a bit more involved, with five components—meaning a pile of dishes to clean afterward!

Let’s start with the ladyfingers. They’re quite straightforward this time, especially since I followed the instructions carefully and sprinkled the confectioner's sugar on top of the piped fingers, instead of mixing it into the batter like I did last time. To make them, whip the egg whites, fold in the yolks, and then incorporate the flour. Pipe the batter, sprinkle with icing sugar, and bake at 350°F until golden.

Now, onto the pears. Why do the French have such a love for pears? I’ve never been a huge fan, finding them a bit mealy. However, poaching really brings out their sweetness and improves the texture. To prepare them, halve the pears and poach them in water, sugar, and vanilla until soft. Once they’ve cooled, purée half of the pears and dice the other half.

The star of this dessert, for me, is the Crème Anglaise. Some people can eat raw cookie dough (which I personally can't), but I could easily devour a whole saucepan of Crème Anglaise. That said, adding the softened gelatin and water mixture to the custard doesn’t do it any favors in my opinion—jelly and custard just don’t mix well.

Afterward, whip the cream (I usually add a bit of liqueur, but I opted to leave it out this time) and gently fold it into the Bavarian cream, which is a mixture of Crème Anglaise and gelatin.

To finish, purée the raspberries, strain out the seeds if desired, and whisk in the confectioner’s sugar and lemon juice.

Now, the hardest part: patience. After all that work, you’ll need to wait 4-5 hours for the Bavarian cream to set!

Bavarois is a classic French dessert that combines gelatin to thicken the mixture and whipped cream to lighten it, creating a rich yet airy treat perfect for any special occasion.

Recipe: Charlotte aux Poires, Coulis de Framboise (Pear Charlotte with Raspberry Coulis)

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Ladyfingers

3 eggs, separated

6 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 cup cake flour

Confectioner's sugar, sifted

Unsalted butter, softened for the baking sheet

Pear Bavarian Cream

1 pound pears

3/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 ounce powdered gelatin (about 1 tablespoon)

2 tablespoons cold water

Crème Anglaise

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 egg yolks

1/4 cup sugar

Whipped Cream

1/4 cup Poire William or domestic pear brandy (I ended up leaving this out)

1/2 cup heavy cream

Raspberry Coulis

1 1/2 cups raspberries

1/2 cup confectioner's sugar

Juice of 1/2 lemon, strained

Instructions:

1. Make the Ladyfingers:

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Whip the egg whites in a stand mixer or by hand until soft peaks form. Gradually add the confectioner's sugar, whipping until stiff peaks form.
In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks and sift the flour.
Gently fold the yolk mixture into the egg whites until fully combined. Be careful not to deflate the batter.
Pipe the batter into long, finger-shaped lines on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle the tops with a light dusting of icing sugar.
Bake for 10-12 minutes, or until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

2. Poach the Pears:

Peel, core, and halve the pears.
In a medium saucepan, add water, sugar, and vanilla (split the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the water, or use vanilla extract). Bring to a simmer.
Add the pear halves to the simmering liquid. Cook for about 15-20 minutes, until pears are tender but not mushy.
Remove the pears from the liquid and let them cool. Once cool, purée half the pears and dice the other half for garnish. Set aside.

3. Prepare the Crème Anglaise:

In a saucepan, heat the milk and vanilla over medium heat until it comes to a simmer (do not let it boil).
In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch together until smooth.
Gradually whisk the hot milk into the egg mixture, tempering the yolks. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens to coat the back of a spoon (about 5 minutes).
Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl to remove any lumps. Allow to cool completely.

4. Make the Bavarois:

Sprinkle the gelatin over 1/4 cup cold water and let it sit for 5 minutes to bloom.
Warm the gelatin mixture in the microwave for about 10 seconds until it dissolves completely. Add it to the cooled Crème Anglaise.
In a separate bowl, whip the heavy cream until soft peaks form. Gently fold the whipped cream into the Crème Anglaise mixture, making sure everything is evenly combined.
Pour the Bavarois mixture into serving dishes or a mold and refrigerate for 4-5 hours, or until set.

5. Prepare the Raspberry Sauce:

In a blender or food processor, purée the raspberries until smooth.
Strain the purée through a fine mesh sieve to remove the seeds.
Add sugar and lemon juice to the raspberry purée. Adjust sweetness to taste.
Refrigerate the raspberry sauce until ready to serve.

6. Assemble the Dessert:

Once the Bavarois has set, spoon a layer of the diced poached pears over the top of the Bavarois.
Drizzle the raspberry sauce over the pears and Bavarois.
Garnish with the ladyfingers, either whole or cut into pieces.
Serve chilled and enjoy!

You can find the recipe for Charlotte aux Poires, Coulis de Framboise (Pear Charlotte with Raspberry Coulis) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes
If you like pears, you'll like this recipe. If you like jello, you'll like this recipe. I liked the ladyfingers and the Crème Anglaise so all was not wasted. And you can't go wrong with raspberry coulis, but it's a very strong taste that likes to overpower the subtle taste of pear.

More Charlottes
• Whisk: Charlotte aux Pommes, Crème Anglaise au Rhum (Apple Charlotte with Rum-Flavored Crème Anglaise)
• Whisk: Charlotte Malakoff (Almond Cream Charlotte)
• Whisk: Charlotte aux pommes, crème anglaise au Calvados (Apple Charlotte served with Calvados custard sauce)
• La Cerise: Charlotte and Biscuits à la Cuillère (Ladyfingers)
• Happy Home Baking: Tiramisu Charlotte Cake

More Bavarois
• Whisk: Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise (Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis)
• Whisk: Bavarois à la Fraise (Strawberry Bavarian Cream with Strawberry Coulis)

Next Time
Crème d’amande (Almond cream) in Almond-Filled Basque Cake page 253

::Whisk::
I'm baking my way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, I try to find a suitable substitution.

More to Explore:

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Chai Oatmeal – A Delicious Twist on a Classic Breakfast

If you’re a fan of Starbucks’ Grande Tazo Chai, you’ll love this Chai Oatmeal recipe. The warm and cozy spices of chai blend perfectly with hearty oats, making for a comforting and flavorful brunch. Whether you enjoy it as a filling breakfast or a special treat, this chai-inspired oatmeal is sure to become your new favorite.

Recipe: Chai Oatmeal

Serves: 2

Ingredients:

1 1/2 cups milk

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

pinch nutmeg

1 vanilla bean

1/4 cup honey

3/4 cup oats

yogurt, nuts, dried fruit, raisins, coconut or fresh fruit

Instructions:

Pour milk into a saucepan. Whisk in salt and spices. Add vanilla bean and honey. Stir to blend. Bring this mixture to a boil, lower heat, and simmer for about 5 minutes to blend the flavors.

Add the oats and stir. Cover the pan and leave over low heat for about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally so that the mixture doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan.

When the oatmeal has thickened to your taste, remove the vanilla bean and serve with yogurt, nuts, dried fruit, raisins, coconut, or fresh fruit and milk.

More to Explore:

Friday, July 22, 2011

Stuffed Chicken Breast – Quick, Easy, and Delicious Meal

If you’re always on the lookout for recipes that are quick, easy to prepare, and delicious, this stuffed chicken recipe is perfect for you. Not only does it come together in no time, but you can also make it ahead of time, making it ideal for busy weeknights. Plus, this recipe is highly versatile – feel free to swap out different cheeses and vegetables to customize the stuffing to your liking.

Recipe: Stuffed Chicken Breast

Serves: 4

Ingredients:

1 cup broccoli, chopped and cooked

1/4 cup onion, sliced

1/2 cup cheddar cheese, grated

1/4 cup ricotta cheese

2 tablespoons red pepper, chopped

1/4 teaspoon pepper, freshly ground

2 whole chicken breasts, boneless (with skin if you prefer), each breast cut in half to make 4 pieces

2 tablespoons oil

Salt

Instructions:

Preheat Oven and Prepare Stuffing: Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C). In a large bowl, combine the cooked broccoli, sliced onion, grated cheddar, ricotta cheese, chopped red pepper, and freshly ground pepper. Mix well.
Stuff the Chicken: Carefully slice a pocket into each chicken breast. Fill each pocket with the stuffing mixture, ensuring it is evenly distributed. Use toothpicks or kitchen string to secure the pockets closed.
Sear the Chicken: Heat a large pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. While the pan heats up, season the chicken breasts with salt. Once the oil is hot, add the chicken to the pan. Sear the chicken for about 2 minutes on one side until browned, then flip and sear the other side.
Bake the Chicken: Transfer the pan to the preheated oven and bake for approximately 15 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the juices run clear.
Serve and Enjoy: Once cooked, remove the chicken from the oven, discard the toothpicks or string, and serve hot. This stuffed chicken is perfect with a side of vegetables, potatoes, or a fresh salad.

More to Explore:

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Taste & Travel (Issue 2, Summer 2011)

The Summer issue of Taste & Travel is on store shelves now.

Travel to several countries and savour the unusual and delicious recipes between the pages of this gorgeous magazine. This issue covers the Yucatán, Paris, Rome, Adelaide, Merida, Malaysia, and New York. You'll see a preview of David Sterling's forthcoming book on the cuisine of Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, a feature about the glorious food in Ottawa's backyard, details about the legendary Knysna oyster from South Africa and get a visual taste of the Chelsea Market in New York City. You'll find recipes for eel, elk, goat, curried spaghetti and bread pudding to name just a few.

The head office of Taste & Travel is in the village of Metcalfe, Ontario, but relies on an editorial team that is international. The creative director is in New Zealand, the senior editorial consultant lives most of the year in Southeast Asia, a contributing editor works out of Japan and a team of other staff members reside in exotic locales. I had fun doing some recipe testing and photography for this issue and am excited to work with the magazine.

You can find Taste & Travel at Chapters stores across Canada. If you're in the Ottawa area, you can also find it at the following stores:

• Pepper Mill in Manotick
• Just Imagine in Manotick
• The Manotick Village Butcher
• Chilly Chiles in Navan
• Domus in Byward Market

Since it sells out quickly, you may want to subscribe so that you won't miss an issue.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Bottles & Bites on Natalie MacLean's Blog

I have been following Natalie MacLean's wine writing career for many years and was one of the first subscribers to her wine newsletter. Since then, she's gone on to write a book, Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass, that recently won Best Wine Literature Book in the English language at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. She's also been named the World's Best Drink Writer. She's won four James Beard Foundation Journalism Awards and is the only person to have won both the M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award from the James Beard Foundation and the M.F.K. Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary Writing from Les Dames d'Escoffier International.

Subscribe to her newsletter, follow her on Twitter, and read her blog.

I have a monthly column on Natalie's blog called "Bottles & Bites". My latest column is a pairing of bubbles and sweetness: Prosecco with Lemon Sponge Cake, Lemon Curd and Raspberry Ice Cream. Check it out!

Monday, July 18, 2011

Oeufs à la Neige (Snow Eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise)

This is one of my favorite desserts. It's just poached meringue in custard and caramel. It's simple, bistro food. And each component can be made ahead. Plus it's economical and contains ingredients you would normally have on hand. The egg whites are used to make the meringue and the yolks are used for the custard. There are only three parts to this dessert:

Meringue
Crème Anglaise
Caramel

What’s the Difference Between Snow Eggs and Floating Islands?

There is some debate about the difference between "Snow Eggs" (Oeufs à la Neige) and "Floating Islands" (Île Flottante). I haven't been able to get a definitive answer. Here are the possibilities:

Snow eggs are typically poached in milk while floating islands are baked in a bain-marie.
Snow eggs don’t traditionally include caramel, whereas floating islands often do.
Floating islands may include hazelnuts in the meringue and are sometimes baked in molds.
The names themselves refer to their presentation: snow eggs are shaped like eggs, while floating islands "float" on a pool of Crème Anglaise.

If you know the answer to this naming mystery, let me know.

Recipe: Oeufs à la Neige (Snow Eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise)

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Crème Anglaise

2 cups milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

4 egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

French Meringue

4 egg whites

4 tablespoons sugar

Caramel

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

Instructions:

Prepare the Crème Anglaise: Heat milk and vanilla in a saucepan until just boiling. In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolks and sugar until pale. Slowly pour the hot milk into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Return to the pan and heat gently, stirring until thickened. Avoid letting it boil. Cool and set aside.
Make the Meringue: Beat egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gradually add sugar and whisk until glossy and firm.
Poach the Meringue: Simmer water in a wide pan. Drop large spoonfuls of meringue into the water and poach for about 3 minutes on each side. Remove and drain on a clean kitchen towel.
Prepare the Caramel: Heat sugar and water in a saucepan until it turns a golden amber colour. Add 1/4 cup of water to stop the cooking process. Keep warm.
Assemble the Dessert: Pour Crème Anglaise into serving bowls, gently place poached meringue on top, and drizzle with caramel. Serve immediately or chill until ready to enjoy.

You can find the recipe for Oeufs à la Neige (Snow Eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes
It's my favorite dessert. Sweet. Comforting. Light.

Links
• Video (in French): how to poach meringue

More Oeufs à la Neige
• Whisk: Floating Islands
• La Tartine Gourmande: Pisatachio Floating Island for Benoit
• La Tartine Gourmande: Vanilla, Cardamom Snow Eggs
• Joe Pastry: Floating Islands Recipe

Next Time
Crème bavarois (Bavarian cream) in Charlotte aux Poires, Coulis de Framboise (Pear Carlotte with Raspberry Coulis) page 308

::Whisk::
I'm baking my way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, I try to find a suitable substitution.

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Saturday, July 16, 2011

Spiced French Toast with Caramelized Bananas and Toasted Almonds

Weekends are a time to slow down and enjoy the little things—catching up on sleep, spending time with loved ones, and savoring a leisurely brunch. If you’re a fan of indulgent breakfast dishes, this Caramelized Banana French Toast will steal your heart.

This isn’t just any French toast. It’s elevated with the natural sweetness of caramelized bananas, the crunch of toasted almonds, and a decadent streusel topping. The secret? Thick slices of cinnamon raisin bread soaked overnight, making your morning preparation a breeze.

Whether you're hosting a weekend brunch or treating yourself, this recipe delivers comfort and flavor in every bite.

Recipe: Spiced French Toast with Caramelized Bananas and Toasted Almonds

Serves: 4, 4 mini loaf pans

Ingredients:

¾ loaf of cinnamon raisin bread, thickly sliced
3 eggs ¾ cups milk 1/8 cup sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 tablespoon butter ½ cup brown sugar 2 bananas, sliced
½ cup almonds, slivered and toasted 1/8 cup brown sugar 1/8 cup oats 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon butter, melted
Maple syrup

Instructions:

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the milk, sugar, vanilla, and spices. Cut the bread to fit the pan you're using. Pour the egg mixture over the bread and allow to soak overnight covered in the refrigerator.

In the morning, finish preparing the French Toast. In a non-stick skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and melt. Add the bananas and cook until caramelized, about 4-6 minutes, stirring gently. Set aside to cool.

Preheat oven to 350°F.

In a small bowl, combine toasted almonds, brown sugar, oats, flour, and melted butter.

Place banana mixture on top of the bread. Sprinkle with almond mixture. Bake until the topping is golden and the filling is hot, about 25 minutes. Serve with warmed maple syrup.

Make-Ahead Convenience: Prep it the night before for an effortless morning.

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Thursday, July 14, 2011

Passion Fruit Lemonade

Do you have a favorite fruit—one that transports you back in time with just a taste or scent? For me, that fruit is passion fruit. Its aroma carries me to distant, joyful moments, evoking a sense of nostalgia like no other.

I adore the crunch of its seeds, the perfect harmony of tangy, sour, and sweet. A single teaspoon of passion fruit pulp can transform an ordinary beverage into something extraordinary, turning a mundane sip into a cherished memory.

One of my most treasured possessions is a cookbook passed down from my mom, titled The New Guinea Cookbook. Its timeworn pages, typed in Courier font, hold a treasure trove of recipes—everything from Baked Breadfruit to this simple yet evocative recipe for Passion Fruit Drink.

PASSION FRUIT DRINK Add lemon juice, sugar and ice water to sieved passion fruit for a refreshing drink.

Below is my version of this simple recipe.

What food brings with it waves of memories for you?

Recipe: Passion Fruit Lemonade

Makes: 10 8-ounce servings

Ingredients:

2½ cups water
1¼ cups sugar
½ teaspoon lemon peel, finely shredded
1¼ cups lemon juice (about 4 lemons, depending on their size)

6 passion fruit, pulp scooped out
1 lemon, thinly sliced
Water
Ice

Instructions:

In a medium saucepan, heat water and sugar until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and cool.

Add lemon peel, lemon juice and passion fruit pulp to sugar syrup. Cover and refrigerate. (Base can be stored in the refrigerator up to 3 days.)

For each serving, pour ½ cup base into a glass. Stir in ½ cup water. Fill the glass with ice and garnish with a lemon slice.

If desired, you can strain the passion fruit pulp to remove the seeds.

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Monday, July 11, 2011

Crêpes Soufflées au Cointreau (Souffléed Crêpes Flamed with Cointreau)

Are crêpes making a comeback? Judging by my recent encounter with Lemon Sugar Crêpes at a Seattle food cart called Anita’s Crêpes, I’d say yes. The experience was unforgettable—fresh lemon juice squeezed over a perfectly cooked crêpe, sprinkled with sugar, and then brûléed with a torch. A dollop of whipped cream sealed the deal. Absolute heaven!

This week, I decided to step up my crêpe game with Crêpes Soufflées au Cointreau—souffléed crêpes flamed with Cointreau. While I adore crêpes, I’ve never been a fan of pastry cream. But I couldn’t resist the challenge of combining it with a flambé finish.

Recipe: Crêpes Soufflées au Cointreau (Souffléed Crêpes Flamed with Cointreau)

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

Sweet Crêpe Batter

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 eggs

Pinch salt

2 tablespoons sugar

1 cup milk

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Grated zest of 1 orange

Pastry Cream

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons cornstarch

¼ cup Cointreau plus 3 tablespoons for flaming the crêpes

1 egg, separated

3 egg whites

Confectioner’s sugar for dusting

Unsalted butter, melted, for crêpe pan

Instructions:

1. Make the Crêpe Batter

Blend all the ingredients until smooth. Let the batter rest for 30 minutes.

2. Prepare the Pastry Cream

Heat milk and vanilla until boiling.
In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolks with sugar, then add flour and cornstarch.
Slowly pour the hot milk into the egg mixture while whisking. Return to the stove and cook until thickened. Let cool.

3. Assemble the Soufflé Mixture

Whisk 3 egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold them gently into the cooled pastry cream.

4. Cook the Crêpes

Heat a crêpe pan with melted butter. Cook each crêpe until golden on both sides. Set aside.

5. Fill and Bake

Preheat oven to 350°F.
Spread the soufflé mixture onto each crêpe, fold, and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes until golden and puffed.

6. Flambé the Crêpes

Heat 3 tablespoons of Cointreau in a saucepan. Light with a match and pour over the crêpes once the flame subsides.

You can find the recipe for Crêpes Soufflées au Cointreau (Souffléed Crêpes Flamed with Cointreau) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) or here.

Tasting Notes
I love anything wrapped in a crêpe. By baking these in the oven for 15 minutes, they were crispy and even tastier. My imagination is going crazy thinking of the combinations I could put inside the crêpe instead of the pastry cream. Plus this could be an easy make-ahead dessert since the crêpes can be made early and stored between sheets of waxed paper.

More Sweet Crêpes
• Whisk: Crêpes au sucre (Sugar pancakes)
• 101 Cookbooks: Sweet Crepes Recipe
• Chocolate & Zucchini: Crêpes
• Spectacularly Delicious: Lemon Crepes

Links
• Video: Crêpes soufflées à la crème chiboust, flambées au grand (in French, but it shows the technique)
• No Recipes: 5 tips for making perfect crêpes (recipe for crêpes with buttered apples)
• Food Wishes: How to Make Crepes - Even the Messed-Up Ones Will Be Perfect!

Next Time
Crème anglaise in Oeufs à la Neige (Snow Eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise) on page 51

::Whisk::
I'm baking my way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, I try to find a suitable substitution.

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Saturday, July 16, 2011

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Thursday, July 14, 2011

Recipe: Passion Fruit Lemonade

Ingredients:

Instructions:

Monday, July 11, 2011

Recipe: Crêpes Soufflées au Cointreau (Souffléed Crêpes Flamed with Cointreau)

Ingredients:

Instructions:

1. Make the Crêpe Batter

2. Prepare the Pastry Cream

3. Assemble the Soufflé Mixture

4. Cook the Crêpes

5. Fill and Bake

6. Flambé the Crêpes

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