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I love a recipe with a story, and this one starts with "You're fired." For creative insubordination.
Dorie Greenspan was the apprentice pastry chef at one of the trendiest restaurants in New York City at the time: The Soho Charcuterie. She was bored making the same two desserts over and over every day so she tweaked this cake slightly and sent it out for service.
"I was fired .. for "creative insubordination" — how could I have known how angry everyone would be when, without mentioning it, I did away with the rum-soaked raisins in the chocolate cake and replaced them with Armagnac-soaked prunes!"
— Dorie Greenspan in an article for Les Dames Escoffier International
I can only imagine that the owners of Soho Charcuterie (who closed in 1985) now regret their lack of vision and trust in such a star of the food world that Dorie became after leaving their establishment.
The CakeDorie's Chocolate Armagnac Cake is a variation on a Chocolate Whiskey Cake known as
Le Doris that was created by Simone "Simca" Beck (one of Julia Child's co-authors of
Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I: 40th Anniversary Edition).
The Chocolate Whiskey Cake appeared in Simca's cookbook,
Simca's Cuisine,
and it was the one served at The Soho Charcuterie.
Prunes for Raisins, Armagnac for Whiskey, Pecans for AlmondsI was curious and decided to make the two versions of the cake to taste side-by-side. To see what the hubbub was about. To taste the cake worthy of firing someone for. So I found the original version of Simone Beck's recipe for
Chocolate Whiskey Cake, compared it to Dorie's and basically substituted raisins for prunes and almonds for pecans. I wanted to buy
Armagnac, but at $99 CAD for a bottle, I had to settle for cognac. I ended up using cognac in both versions so it's not a true taste test, but it was close enough.
Malcolm Jolley: Why did you get fired?
Dorie Greenspan: Prunes.
— From an interview between Malcolm Jolley and Dorie
Another food writer,
Florence Fabricante, award-winning author for
The New York Times has her own
version of this cake too. Her changes include increasing the quality and amount of chocolate, using brown sugar, currants instead of raisins, and sometimes almond flour instead of all-purpose flour. She also uses Irish whiskey.
Every baker is a recipe hacker. I, too, use what I have available, leave out what I don't like, adjust the technique, and find a unique way to present it. A recipe is a sweet muse.
Virtual DorieI saw
Virtual JFK on the weekend, and it made me think about what-if scenarios. What if Dorie had used currants instead of prunes? Would she have been fired? Would she have settled into a career as a pastry chef? Would we have
Baking:
From My Home to Yours (affiliate link) and bake each week through this wonderful cookbook? It's thanks to her tweaks and experimentation that we have so many beloved recipes. Cheers to her creative insubordination.
Recipe: Chocolate Armagnac Cake
Makes: 8 servings (I halved each recipe)
In the photo:
water, cognac & prunes/water, cognac & raisins
pecans, flour & salt/almonds, flour & salt
eggs, water, butter, chocolate, sugar/Glaze ingredients
For the Cake:
2/3 cup finely ground pecans (or walnuts)
¼ cup all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
12 plump, moist prunes, pitted if necessary and cut into bits
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons water
¼ cup Armagnac (or cognac, brandy or Scotch whiskey)
7 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
3 large eggs, separated
1/3 cup sugar
For the Glaze:
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, more for pan
1/3 cup dried currants
½ cup Irish whiskey
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, 70 percent cacao, in pieces
Salt
3 large eggs, separated
1 cup light brown sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
Confectioners' sugar
1 cup heavy cream
You can find the recipe for Chocolate Armagnac Cake in the book
Baking:
From My Home to Yours (affiliate link) by
Dorie Greenspan or
here. To see how the rest of the TWD group fared with this week's recipe, click
here and then click on each blogger! Thanks to LyB from of
And then I do the dishes who chose the recipe for this week.
I didn't have two springform pans the same size so I used one springform and one small round pan. One cake was flatter than the other because of this.Tasting NotesThis almost flourless cake is intense, fudgy, rich, velvety chocolate decadence with a slight kick from the cognac. The dense chocolate is taken to an
al dente stage that melts immediately on your tongue. Though delicious on its own, a whiff of whipped cream or a swirl of vanilla ice cream and a strong espresso makes it perfection. To me, that is.
My daughter, on the other hand, asked after taking one bite and tasting a raisin: "What's in this?!" And then after finding out, she wondered: "Can you make it without raisins and prunes?" I'll try.
Update: Now that we've had a few days to savor these cakes, I have to say that we finished the prune version first. The prunes melted into the cake, making it moister. In the raisin cake, the raisins were not subtle. If you got a bit with a raisin, it tasted like raisin and chocolate. I think if I had soaked the raisins longer, this wouldn't have happened.
Recipe for Next Week (March 10)Lemon Cup Custard on page 387 chosen by Bridget of
The Way the Cookie Crumbles