Showing posts with label Class 08. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Class 08. Show all posts

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Soufflé glacé à l'orange (Deep-frozen orange soufflé)

Frozen Orange Soufflé Recipe | Soufflé Glacé à l'Orange
Frozen soufflé is not a true soufflé but a frozen mousse. It is a custard mixture usually thickened with gelatin and lightened with egg whites or whipped cream or both. Its presentation looks like a soufflé because the mixture is frozen in a soufflé dish that’s been wrapped with a tall paper collar so that it looks like a soufflé has risen out of the dish like a baked one.

I tasted an amazing frozen soufflé by one of the best chefs in our city, Stephen Vardy from Beckta (however, he’s no longer at this restaurant). It was a passion fruit soufflé and his recipe didn’t include gelatin or egg yolks so it was a bit simpler than the one below: Italian Meringue + passion fruit purée and a touch of lime + whipped cream. He served it in an espresso cup with raspberry gelato. Yum!

Italian Meringue
Meringue is simply sweetened egg whites. It’s more stable than meringue made with egg whites and spoonfuls of sugar. It is believed that an Italian baker named Gasparini from the Swiss town of Meiringen created meringue. There is more interesting history in this article.

When making meringue, superfine sugar is recommended since it dissolves faster, but I used regular sugar since I was making a sugar syrup. The heat of the syrup cooks the eggs and allows it to hold its shape much better than an uncooked meringue.

Use room temperature eggs to increase the meringue’s volume. To get stiff egg whites, the bowl must be free from grease and the whites must be free from any yolk. Stiff peaks mean the whites are glossy and very stiff, and the peaks are stiff enough to hold their shape.

Whipped Cream
Cream with 30%-36% fat can be turned into whipped cream by whisking it with air. Prepare whipped cream just before using since it won't stay whipped for very long. The cream should be cold when whipped to make sure it doesn’t collapse. Don’t overwhip the cream or it will curdle and separate. It should double in volume and form soft peaks.

Recipe for Soufflé glacé à l'orange


2¼ teaspoons (1 7-ounce package) granulated gelatin
4-6 tablespoons water
½ cup water
1 cup sugar, divided
Zest and juice of 2 oranges
3 eggs, separated, room temperature
1 cup heavy cream, chilled

You can find the recipe in from Le Cordon Bleu Dessert Techniques (affiliate link)..
Tasting Notes
This is a light dessert after a heavy meal. It can be served frozen or at room temperature like a mousse. There are lots of opportunities to play around with this recipe with flavorings and ingredients. I think orange is mild, but a dash or two of Grand Marnier would spark this up a bit.
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Running total: $252.69 + $5.01 = $257.70

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 27.5 tablespoons




Saturday, March 22, 2008

Sorbet au citron vert (Lime sorbet)

Lime Sorbet Recipe | Refreshing Citrus Dessert

Lime Sorbet Recipe

Lime Sorbet
Here's another frozen dessert - lime sorbet. Check out the Granité au Calvados blog entry for more info about other frozen desserts.

This one has a bit of egg white so maybe it should be called sherbet since it contains some dairy! According to The Columbia Guide to Standard American English, the word sherbet appeared in English in the seventeenth century and it meant a cold, fruit drink. It had two pronunciations at the time: sherbet and sherbert. However, some purists argue that only sherbet is acceptable now.

But let’s not mess with language, and just taste it. It’s undeniably delicious by any name!

Recipe: Sorbet au citron vert (Lime sorbet)


1½ cups water
1½ cups sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
¾ cup lime juice, strained
1 egg white, lightly beaten
1 pineapple (about 1¾ pounds)
¼ cup white rum
Zest of 1 lime

You can find the recipe in from Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).
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Lime Sorbet
Tasting Notes
The Lime Sorbet was amazing. Sweet, citrus-y, tangy wrapped in a frozen mouthful. It was especially tasty with the rum-soaked pineapple (even though I forgot to photograph that part of it!).

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Running total: $246.25 + $6.44 = $252.69

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 27.5 tablespoons




Friday, March 21, 2008

Granité au Calvados (Calvados sorbet)

Apple Granité & Calvados Sorbet Recipes | Refreshing Frozen Desserts

Apple Granité & Calvados Sorbet Recipes

Granité (grah-nee-tay) and sorbet (sor-bay) are frozen dessert cousins that, unlike ice cream, do not contain any dairy products (such as milk, cream, or eggs). Both can be used as a palate cleanser in between courses or as light desserts.

I remember the first time I was served a frozen treat in-between courses at a restaurant. I thought it was so chic that later in the week I went out and bought some Häagen-Dazs® lemon sorbet for the next time we had dinner guests. Now, I can make it myself and feel even more culinary!

Granité
Granité is the plural form of granita in Italian. It’s a coarse-textured, grainy, crystalline frozen mixture that contains sugar, water, and a flavored liquid. It is traditionally made in a pan in the freezer and stirred with a fork about every 30 minutes.

Sorbet
Sorbet is French for the Italian sorbetto or sorbetti (plural). It’s a smooth, creamy, sweet, fruity frozen mixture that contains sugar, water, and fruit (either juice or puréed). It is made with a sorbet or ice cream maker.

Other Frozen Desserts
There are so many different frozen desserts: granité, sorbet, Italian Ice, sherbet, gelato, glace (pronounced glahs) among others. At first, I found the list of different frozen desserts overwhelming. Inspired by Jessica Hagy at her blog called Indexed, I decided to come up with my own index card graph, albeit a little more boring than hers! Here’s my compilation of several frozen desserts and where they fit on a creamy/icy scale and a fine/coarse scale.


A few more facts:

Sherbet (NOT sherbert): Lighter than ice cream but richer than sorbet and contains dairy products.

Ice cream: Creamy flavor. Up to 50% air. Higher butterfat content (11-15%)

Gelato: Italian for ice cream. Denser flavor because it has less air (10-20%) in it than ice cream. Lower butterfat content (4-14%) than ice cream. Stored at a higher temperature (-13°C).

Glace: French for frozen custard. Rich flavor.

Italian Ice: A smooth, sweet water ice.

There is a ton of information about all these different types on the internet. Click here for one of the best pages I found that discusses all of them. Also, Shirley O. Corriher in Cookwise explains the different frozen desserts and their science very succinctly. Definitely worth a read.

Calvados

As I learned when making the Charlotte aux pommes, Calvados Calvadosis an apple brandy from the heart of Normandy in France. Although I didn’t splurge on a bottle for that recipe, I broke down and bought one for these frozen treats! I’m going to have to make a few more Apple Charlottes and apple sorbets to make up for it.

Recipe: Granité au Calvados (Calvados sorbet)

This is a traditional granité that’s icy and crunchy.

from tbsp blog

Makes: 4 small servings


1 cup apple juice (replace some with water, if desired)
⅛ cup sugar
½ tablespoon lemon juice and/or ½ tablespoon apple brandy

Mix all the ingredients in a bowl to dissolve the sugar. Pour into a metal pan and put in the freezer. Stir with a fork every 30 minutes until it reaches a coarse, grainy texture.

Recipe: Calvados Sorbet

This sorbet is smooth and creamy.

Adapted from Food Network

Makes: about 3 cups


⅔ cup water
½ cup sugar
1½ cups apple juice, chilled
⅓ cup Calvados, chilled

Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and let it boil for 2 minutes to dissolve the sugar. Cool. Add the apple juice and the Calvados and stir.

Transfer to a sorbet or ice cream maker and follow the manufacturer’s directions. Then, transfer the mixture to a container and freeze until firm, about 1 hour.

The addition of alcohol to the recipe lowers the freezing point, so this type takes longer to freeze and tends to separate after storage. Just stir it before serving.

Recipe: Green Apple Sorbet

This recipe is from the website for the Calvados brandy that I purchased. The puréed apple with the peels looks delicious in the sorbet.

Makes: 4 servings


4 Granny Smith apples (500 g)
1 lemon, juiced
1¼ cups water
1¼ cups sugar
Calvados, for drizzling

Core and dice the apples; leave the skin on. Toss with the lemon juice and freeze overnight.

Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and let it boil for 2 minutes to dissolve the sugar. Pour the hot syrup over the frozen apples and blend in a blender.

Transfer to a sorbet or ice cream maker and follow the manufacturer’s directions. Then, transfer the mixture to a container and freeze until firm, about 1 hour.

When serving, drizzle some Calvados on top.


Tasting Notes
My freezer is now full of so many apple-flavored frozen treats, I’m not sure what I’m going to do since they don’t keep for very long (a week, if that). I liked each one for different reasons.

• Apple Granité had a very grainy, icy texture that was very similar to a popsicle.
• Calvados Sorbet from Gourmet was smooth with a kick from the brandy.
• Green Apple Sorbet from Calvados Boulard was sophisticated, sweet, and beautiful.

I also tried making a granité that the kids would like using their favorite juice and leaving out the brandy! I thought they’d like the popsicle angle. Again, they were amazed that I could make something that they could enjoy (since I still haven’t been able to convince them that chicken is delicious!).

I also thought a mix of granité and sorbet in one bowl would be interesting to try and provide some contrasting tastes in each bite: smooth and crunchy. This turned out to be my favorite way to finish up all the frozen treats I’d assembled.

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Running total: $237.04 + $1.21 (Apple Granité) + $5.05 (Calvados Sorbet) + $2.95 (Green Apple Sorbet) = $246.25

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 27.5 tablespoons



Friday, March 14, 2008

Cigarettes aux amandes (Tubular almond biscuits) with Crème glacée vanilla (Vanilla ice cream) and Glace au café (Coffee ice cream)

Cigarettes aux Amandes & Krumkake Recipes - A Crunchy Ice Cream Treat

Cigarettes aux amandes are a wafer-thin, crisp, sweet biscuit often served as an accompaniment to ice cream or hot chocolate. They’re sometimes called tuiles (or tiles) because they look like authentic roof tiles found along the French countryside. To me, they look a lot like Pringles! However, this recipe calls for them to be formed into cigarettes, so I’ll try that too.

Krumkake—the Uff Da treat
The recipe for tuiles reminded me of Krumkake (which means crumble cake or cookie, pronounced KROOM-kah-kah), a Norwegian favorite at Christmas time in our family. It’s a flat cookie that’s rolled around a cone-shaped pin or dowel, similar to a waffle cone or a pizzelle (the Italian waffle cookie). It, too, has an almond flavoring.


The batter is put into a Krumkake iron, which resembles a waffle iron. A traditional old world iron is placed over a hot burner on the stovetop, although now you can buy models that are electric. Typically, the iron stamps a pattern onto both sides of this thin golden-brown cookie, which has a crisp texture once it is cooled. Once cooked, you must quickly roll it using a cone roller before it becomes too brittle to roll. Krumkake is often served with whipped cream inside, but ice cream is delicious too.

A few years ago, my mom brought my grandmother’s heavy cast iron Krumkake iron on the plane for me to have. What an honor, and finally, I’ve used it. It’s been well-loved and has the patina of many Krumkake cookies layered on it. Although it’s not electric and doesn’t have a “color select dial” to let me choose from golden to brown, it worked just fine and I felt connected to times past and fond memories of eating this delicious cookie at Christmas. I also realized how easy it is to make and next time will not hesitate to pull it out of the back of the pantry.

Watch a pro make Krumkake
Here is a video videoof how the Krumkakes are cooked and rolled. These guys make it look easy! However, it's not everyone's favorite thing to make. 

Shaping
For both Cigarettes aux amandes and Krumkake, shaping them can be the trickiest part of the recipe. You must do it while the cookies are still very warm, or they will dry and become brittle and impossible to bend. You can use a pencil, a dowel, a skewer, a special cone shaped dowel, a bowl, a teacup, or a rolling pin. You can even buy a tuile sheet for shaping them into the traditional curved shape. If you're baking them in the oven, you can make your own template using acetate or stiff plastic (such as the top of a plastic container). You can also pipe patterns using a piping bag or paper cone. Use your imagination.

Ice cream
Now that the crunchy bit of the dish is done, it’s time for the creamy ice cream. Ice cream is so simple to make. All you need is an ice cream maker. Thankfully, after all the years of Christmas gifts and appliances I’ve received, I seem to have all the ones I need.

Ice cream is just crème anglaise that’s frozen. That’s it, that’s all. For the Charlotte aux pommes recipe, I learned how to make crème anglaise. This time, I added a real vanilla bean to the vanilla ice cream base and some instant espresso powder to the coffee ice cream base. Threw it in the ice cream maker, and 2 hours later, I had homemade, rich, delicious ice cream

Watch a pro make Crème anglaise
Here's a useful video videoon making Crème anglaise.

Recipe: Cigarettes aux amandes (Tubular almond biscuits) with Crème glacée vanilla (Vanilla ice cream) and Glace au café (Coffee ice cream)

⅔ cup sugar
1 large egg
3 large egg whites
4 ounces sliced almonds
⅓ cup all-purpose flour, sifted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

You can find the recipe in from Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Recipe: Krumkake from my grandmother

Makes:: about 24

3 eggs, beaten
½ cup sugar
½ cup butter, melted
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup flour
1 teaspoon almond flavoring

Whisk the eggs and the sugar. Stir in the remaining ingredients. Do not over-beat. Heat the iron. Drop about 1-2 tablespoons of batter on the iron. Follow the manufacturer’s directions. Roll on pin immediately.

Like Cigarettes aux amandes, these cookies should be served the same day they are made. That’s when they’re the most crispy. If you can’t serve them right away, store them in an airtight tin. Do not store with other cookies or they'll get soft. A friend of mine makes large batches of Krumkake at Christmas time for friends and family and delivers them in paper boxes tied with a ribbon. They keep well for weeks that way and they make a nice gift!

Recipe: Crème glacée vanilla (Vanilla ice cream)


Makes: 6 ¼-cup scoops

1 cup milk
1 cup heavy cream
4 egg yolks
½ cup sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 vanilla bean, split open

You can find the recipe in from Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Recipe: Glace au café (Coffee ice cream)


Makes: 6 ¼-cup scoops

1 cup milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 egg yolks
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon instant espresso powder

You can find the recipe in from Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes
My kids were amazed that I was able to make vanilla ice cream, asking incredulously, “You made this??” And the coffee ice cream…let’s just say that I’ll never have to buy Coffee Häagen-Dazs® again! The problem was that the recipes only made 6 scoops of each kind! I’d definitely double these recipes next time!

I made both the Cigarettes aux amandes and the Krumkake. I found the Krumkake lighter, more crunchy, and tastier with the ice cream, but I’m part Norwegian! I even added some sliced almonds to the Krumkake batter and tried baking them the way the recipe for Cigarettes aux amandes describes. These turned out good too.

A delicious ice cream treat to enjoy any day of the year, even after the 13 feet of snow we’ve had to shovel this winter in Ottawa.

Quick Survey:
What’s your favorite ice cream flavor and
how much snow have you had to shovel this year?

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Running total: $219.91+ $3.57 (Cigarettes aux amandes) + $2.52 (Krumkake) + $7.36 (Crème glacée vanilla) + $3.68 (Glace au café) = $237.04

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 27.5 tablespoons

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