Showing posts with label Breads. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Breads. Show all posts

Monday, October 3, 2011

The Art of Brioche: A Buttery Indulgence Worth the Wait

If you're patient, in a few hours you can make brioche. You just need a teaspoon of yeast, a half dozen eggs, and almost half a pound of butter along with the usual breadlike suspects.

Brioche is classified as a viennoiserie (Viennese Specialties), which are baked goods made from a yeast-leavened dough that is enriched with milk, sugar, eggs, or butter. In this case, lots of eggs and butter. Brioche isn't a low-fat treat but an indulgence.

The trickiest part of this recipe is the dough's stickiness. But leave the pasty dough to the hook, forget the traditional, hand-kneading method, and go check your email. Then, while it's rising, do some gardening. And after you've formed the rolls, go downtown to buy a new gadget. Then eat some cake.

Original: "Qu'ils mangent de la brioche."- Marie Antoinette
Translation: "Let them eat rich, expensive, funny-shaped, yellow, eggy buns."
-Urban Legends
Tips for Perfect Brioche  

1. Embrace the Stickiness: The dough will be sticky; let your mixer’s dough hook do the work.  
2. Be Patient: Brioche takes time, but the slow rise develops flavor and texture.  
3. Use Butter Generously: Don’t skimp—this is where brioche gets its magic.  

Recipe: Brioche

Makes: 16 individual rolls


Ingredients:

3 tablespoons milk, warmed
1/4 oz package dried yeast
3 cups bread or all-purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
6 eggs, lightly beaten

3/4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 egg beaten and mixed with 2 tablespoons of water, for glaze

[You can find the recipe for Brioche in the book Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link).]

Instructions:

In a small bowl, proof the yeast in some warm milk. In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, whisk all the ingredients. Add the yeast mixture. Knead until the dough forms a smooth ball. In an oiled bowl, place the dough and cover. Let rise at room temperature for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until doubled in size.

Punch down. In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the room-temperature butter to the dough and knead until the dough is smooth again. Cover and let rest for about 5 minutes.

Form into rolls. Let rise for 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Preheat oven to 400°F. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool.

Here's a video showing how to make it by hand.


Tasting Notes
The crust on my brioche was nice and crunchy, but I should have pulled mine out of the oven sooner than I did. Overall, they have a nice texture and warming them in the microwave for about 10 seconds makes them even tastier.

Next Time
Puff Pastry in Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link) page 542

Links
La Tartine Gourmande: Simplest Brioche
Julia Child: Brioche Dough (video)
Dorie Greenspan: Brioche

::Whisk::
I'm baking my way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, I try to find a suitable substitution.

More to Explore:





Monday, September 26, 2011

Croissants: A Beginner's Journey to Parisian Perfection


Making croissants at home can seem daunting, but if you’ve mastered puff pastry, you’re halfway there! Croissants are essentially "baby" puff pastries—requiring fewer turns and an overnight rest. While they demand patience and practice, the reward is a flaky, buttery masterpiece that rivals the best Parisian bakeries.

My standards for croissants are high: I expect a rich, golden, crinkly surface; I expect it to explode (quietly) when bitten into; and I expect every crumb to be loaded with butter.
- Pam Frier, Times Columnist
Croissant-Making Simplified  

1. Fewer Turns: Unlike puff pastry, croissants require fewer laminating folds, making the process more approachable.  
2. Overnight Rest: Resting the dough in the refrigerator develops flavor and makes it easier to work with.  
3. Practice Makes Perfect: Achieving that perfect flakiness takes time, but every attempt is deliciously rewarding. 


Recipe: Croissants

Makes: 12-16

Ingredients:

1 pound all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/4 cups milk
1/2 ounce fresh yeast or 1/4 ounce dried yeast
1 1/3 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten

[You can find the recipe for Croissants in the book Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link).] You can watch this video to see the method: How to Make Croissants.

Tasting Notes
With all that butter and fresh dough, what's not to love about these croissants. I will keep practicing and aim for crumb-explosion perfection.

Croissant in Paris


Next Time
Brioche in Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link) page 430

Links
Food Timeline's Croissant History
Food & Wine: Lamination: The Art of the Perfect Croissant

Croissant in Paris
::Whisk::
I'm baking my way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, I try to find a suitable substitution.

More to Explore:





Sunday, June 7, 2009

Bread Baker's Apprentice—Bagels

Bagel on Dough HookBagels are a favorite in our house and Montreal-style bagels in particular are popular in Ottawa. I haven't eaten many New York-style bagels so I was keen to give them a try.

I was curious about what makes a Montreal-style bagel different from a New York-style bagel. The Montreal-style bagel is usually small, crunchy and sweet. It's made with malt and sugar rather than salt and is baked in a wood-fired oven. The New York bagel is more puffy, with a softer crust and a somewhat savory flavor since it uses salt instead of sugar. Also, unlike the typical Montreal bagel, it is baked in a standard oven.

Bagels have a long history going back possibly as far as ancient Egypt; however, popular myth places the invention of the bagel in Krakow shortly after the 1683 Battle of Vienna. As the story goes, a baker made a roll in the shape of the king's stirrup and called it a beugel (which is Austrian for "stirrup") as a thank you to King Sobieski who saved Austria from the Turks. Bagels were brought to North America in the early 1900s by Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe. They settled largely in Montreal and New York City leading to those cities developing the major bagel styles we eat today.
"The bagel [is] an unsweetened doughnut with rigor mortis."
—Beatrice and Ira Freeman, in "About Bagels", New York Times May 22, 1960
The recipe calls for a high-gluten flour, which is not readily available in Canadian stores, and I found out why: it turns out that all-purpose flour in Canada already is high-gluten! This makes our standard flour particularly good for breads and generally anything crusty…including bagels.

Recipe: Bagels

Makes: 12 bagels

Ingredients:

For the Sponge:
1 teaspoon instant yeast
4 cups unbleached high-gluten or bread flour
2½ cups water at room temperature

For the Dough:
½ teaspoon instant yeast
3¾ cups unbleached high-gluten or bread flour
2¾ teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons malt powder

To Finish:
1 tablespoon baking soda
Cornmeal or semolina flour for dusting
Sesame seeds, kosher salt

You can find the recipe for Bagels in the book The Bread Baker's Apprentice: Mastering the Art of Extraordinary Bread (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the BBA (Bread Baker's Apprentice) Challenge group fared with this week's recipe, click here and then click on each blogger!

BagelsTasting Notes
These bagels tasted great, especially with a schmear of dill cream cheese. But I found the flavor a bit dull with a simple salted butter. Toasted was a different story: these bagels were excellent served toasted with butter. For sprinkles, I chose to use sea salt and sesame seeds. In hindsight, next time I would choose more neutral flavors that are suited to both savory and sweet cream cheeses (like pineapple cream cheese).

The recipe suggested boiling the bagels for 1 minute for a soft texture and 2 minutes for a chewier texture. So, I split the batch in half and tried it both ways. Honestly, I don't think I would have noticed the difference if I weren't looking for it, but if I had to pick I would probably choose the longer boiling time.

So, which is better? Montreal or New York-style? As much as I enjoyed the New York-style I think I'll have to go with Montreal. Now where to find a great Montreal-style bagel recipe...





Monday, May 25, 2009

Bread Baker's Apprentice—Greek Celebration Bread

Greek Celebration BreadThe Greek Celebration Breads are sweet breads served at holiday times such as Christmas, Easter, and New Year's. This week I made the Greek Christmas Bread called Christopsomos Bread. The holiday recipes are generally made using the base "Greek Celebration Bread" and then fruit and nuts are added.

I chose to make the Christopsomos bread in part because I'm a big fan of raisin bread and hot cross buns, and also because of its curly cue appearance. Today though I was in the mood for something a little different, so I replaced the fruit with raisins and swapped walnuts out in favor of pecans. Yum!

This recipe suggests that authentic Greek spices can be used. Spices such as Mastic and Mahleb (which is extracted from Santa Lucia cherry pits) could replace all the spices found in the recipe.) Unfortunately, I couldn’t find either locally, so here is the North American version.

Recipe: Greek Celebration Bread

Makes: 1 loaf

For the Poolish:
2½ cups unbleached bread flour
1½ cups water, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon instant yeast

For the Dough:
1 cup poolish (not the entire poolish above)
3½ cups unbleached bread flour
1 teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons instant yeast
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon minced orange zest
1 teaspoon almond extract
2 large eggs, slightly beaten
¼ cup honey
¼ cup olive oil
¾ cup whole milk, lukewarm

My Christopsomos Variation:
1 cup dark raisins
½ cup chopped pecans

For the Glaze:
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon orange or lemon extract
1 teaspoon sesame seeds

You can find the recipe for Greek Celebration Bread in the book The Bread Baker's Apprentice: Mastering the Art of Extraordinary Bread (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the BBA (Bread Baker's Apprentice) Challenge group fared with this week's recipe, click here and then click on each blogger! I'm not listed there since the group grew to 200 (the cutoff point) too fast. I'll join in now and then, though.

Tasting Notes
First of all the appearance of this bread is amazing with its Christmas cross in the center and then swirls reminiscent of the elaborate columns found in ancient Greek architecture decorated with sesame seeds and honey glaze. Appearance-wise alone, this bread would draw out a chorus of oohs and aahs if served at a big family brunch.

So, what about the taste? Sweet and delicious! The raisins fit very nicely with the complex combination of spices in this bread, which was very reminiscent of hot cross buns. In all, I really enjoyed this bread and can't wait to serve it next Christmas!

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Thursday, May 21, 2009

Bread Baker's Apprentice—Anadama Bread

Anadama BreadAnadama bread is a traditional New England sweet bread characterized by flour, molasses, and cornmeal. It has an unusual name whose origins are explained by local folklore. The story has several variations but most of them go something like this: a fisherman, angry at his wife for serving him little more than cornmeal and molasses porridge, decides to take matters into his own hands, adds flour and yeast, then bakes it. As he eats the resulting bread, he mutters “Anna, damn her!” and the name stuck. Or at least the kinder, gentler version, Anadama, stuck!
"A loaf of bread, a jug of wine, and thou."
‑ Omar Khayyam
The recipe demands your attention because it requires several more steps than traditional versions that tend to be of the direct bake variety. The first two steps draw out the flavor from the corn as well as soften it to improve its digestibility. In these steps, you first create a cornmeal soaker and leave it overnight, and then you mix that into a sponge, leaving it for another hour. Next, you mix the dough and allow it to rise for about 90 minutes, followed by shaping and proofing for 90 more minutes. Finally, the cooking time is around 40-50 minutes. So, in all (if we don't include the soak overnight), it takes about 5½ hours from start to finish.

Recipe: Anadama Bread

Makes: 2 loaves of bread

Yeast and Flour

Ingredients:

For the Soaker:
1 cup cornmeal, preferably coarse grind (also known as polenta)
1 cup water at room temperature

For the Regular Sponge:
2 cups unbleached bread flour
2 teaspoons instant yeast
1 cup lukewarm water

For the Final Dough:
2½ cups unbleached bread flour
1½ teaspoons salt
6 tablespoons molasses (lighter is better)
2 tablespoons shortening or unsalted butter at room temperature

You can find the recipe for Anadama Bread in the book The Bread Baker's Apprentice: Mastering the Art of Extraordinary Bread (affiliate link).Anadama Bread To see how the rest of the BBA (Bread Baker's Apprentice) Challenge group fared with this week's recipe, click here and then click on each blogger! I'm not listed there since the group grew to 200 (the cutoff point) too fast. I may join in now and then, though.

Tasting Notes
I enjoyed this bread. It's tender and sweet but not overpowering. I was surprised to find that the gritty cornmeal texture wasn't apparent as I was eating it. Thinking back, softening the cornmeal was part of the purpose of the soaker and sponge stages, and it really worked. Anadama bread's somewhat dense structure pays off in the crust. The slightly chewy texture is easily the best part of a slice and lightly toasting it really brings that chewiness to the rest of the slice.

This is the first time I've made Anadama bread, and next time I try it I'd like to see how a more traditional, less involved, recipe compares. Also, I would like to try it again with lighter molasses (as recommended by the recipe). I used a dark molasses this time and I think a lighter molasses would allow the corn flavors to be more prominent. All in all though, I highly recommend this bread.