Showing posts with label classic French dishes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label classic French dishes. Show all posts

Monday, May 31, 2010

Petite Marmite Henry IV and a ditty


"Seventy Five Pickles at 15 Roux, (like a street)
Half a chicken and knuckles 2 (1 of each knuckle)
300 Carrots?
Half turnip, half beans (that means half of 300, each, or 150)
A leeky heart half a lemon squeeze ( 1 leek, one heart of celery, half a lemon)
50/50 mustard salt and cheese
half a piece of french bread please
100 creamers, and chicken stock 2? (100 cream, 2 lt. stock)
Now we've got some Marmite Stew."
—Susan Whetzel from She's Becoming Doughmesstic
In November, when I was studying for the final exam for Basic Cuisine at Le Cordon Bleu, I tweeted my frustration at having to memorize 12 recipes. One of these recipes would be part of our written exam and worth 10% of the mark. We also had to know all 12 since one of them would be the recipe for the practical part of the final exam. A blogger/Twitter friend felt my pain, and she sent me this ditty for Marmite (pronounced mar-MEET). So sweet and helpful!




Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Rouelles de Veau Bourgeoise (Veal Shanks with Pearl Onions and Mushrooms)

Rouelles de Veau Bourgeoise (Veal Shanks with Pearl Onions and Mushrooms)"Holed bone" is on the menu this week, better known as Osso Bucco (or Ossobucco). The meat comes from the back leg of the veal, called the shank, and the bone marrow is part of the appeal of the dish, which is best eaten with a marrow spoon.

To make this dish, first you boil the veal! Basically, this makes a flavored stock to later braise the meat in. Other recipes for osso bucco dredge the meat in flour and brown it instead of boil it.

Then you make a roux and add the meat and braising liquid. Finally, a few aromatics are added, consisting of a Bouquet Garni, salt and pepper. After a while, the pearl onions are added (with one lonely onion studded with a clove).

When the meat is cooked through until fork tender, you set it aside and finish the sauce with a liaison of egg yolks.

The mushrooms, the best part of the dish, were sautéed in butter and added to the braised mixture just before serving. Season (generously!) and serve with a touch of parsley.

Recipe: Rouelles de Veau Bourgeoise (Veal Shanks with Pearl Onions and Mushrooms)

Serves: 6 (I halved the recipe.)

Rouelles de Veau Bourgeoise (Veal Shanks with Pearl Onions and Mushrooms)mise en place

Ingredients:

3 pounds (approximately) veal shanks, sawed into 6 slices, each about 1½ inches thick
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 Bouquet Garni
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
30 pearl onions, peeled
1 clove
¾ pound small button or quartered large mushrooms, trimmed and cleaned
2 egg yolks
Parsley leaves for garnish

You can find the recipe for Rouelles de Veau Bourgeoise (Veal Shanks with Pearl Onions and Mushrooms) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) or here. To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Rouelles de Veau Bourgeoise (Veal Shanks with Pearl Onions and Mushrooms)Tasting Notes
"Osso Buco can be either fabulous, or it can be decidedly mediocre."
— Aunt Aletha and Dear Old Dave
Unfortunately, mine was mediocre. Although the meat was extremely tender, the sauce was thin and the flavor was lackluster. Next time, I'll buy a better cut of veal shank, dredge and brown the meat first, brown the roux to a darker color, use more flavorful aromatics, add bacon or pancetta, use homemade veal stock, and thicken the sauce with another egg or through reduction. If there is a next time!

Links
• Video: How to Make Osso Bucco
• Chocolate & Zuchhini: Jarret de Veau Braisé à la Cuiller
• La Tartine Gourmande: Osso Bucco Comfort Food

Next Class
• Gratin de Fruits au Marasquin (Fruit Gratin with Maraschino Liqueur) page 376

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $1,304.02 + $19.80 (veal) + $8.56 (other ingredients) = $1,332.38
($9.45 per serving)

Butter used so far: 12 pounds, 1.5 tablespoons

. . . . . . . . . .
::Whisk Wednesdays::
We're cooking our way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, we try to find a suitable substitution. Find out more here.




Saturday, April 19, 2008

Filets de sole Dieppoise (Sole fillet served with a white wine sauce)




Sole Dieppoise is a dish from the port of Dieppe in northern France where sole is easier to find than here in Ottawa, it seems. I’ve been putting off working through this fish dish for some time now. However, now that I’ve made it I wish I hadn’t waited so long to give it a try. It’s delish!

Sole
Sole is a white, flat fish. The word “sole” comes from sandal since that’s what this fish looks like. The fish has two sides: the underside is a beautiful shimmering white, the upperside (with the eyes) is a camouflage pattern. However, I only know this from reading about it!

The fishmonger I went to didn’t have a whole sole (joking he only had half a soul left!) for me to practice filleting. He also didn’t have any sole fillets, so I ended up buying snapper fillets and a whole Red Snapper to try filleting. The snapper fillets were my backup knowing I wouldn’t be all that successful at creating an edible fillet on my first try.

I don’t have a picture of how my fillets turned out since they weren’t photogenic! I even watched a couple of videos beforehand to try to hone my skills, but I need more practice!

Watch a pro fillet a sole
Here's a great video showing how to fillet a flat fish.

Stock
The two main stocks in French cuisine are white (fond blanc) and brown (fond brun). The key difference between the two is that brown stock is browned in the oven first. Ingredients for white stocks are put in a stock pot with the liquid. The meat used in white stocks could be veal, chicken, or fish. For this dish, we’re using the fish stock (or fumet) made for the last class.

Velouté sauce
In the world of sauces, the first celebrity chef was Antonin Carême (1784-1833), known as the founder of classic French cookery, and is also known to have made Napoleon's wedding cake. Now there’s a catering job! Carême designated four classic sauces: Béchamel, Velouté (veh-loo-TAY), Espagnole, and Allemande.

Then along came Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935), a young, ambitious, whipper-snapper who updated the list of mother sauces to five: Béchamel, Velouté, Espagnole, Hollandaise, and Tomato. Since Allemande is derived from Velouté, it was replaced with Hollandaise and Tomato was added.

For this dish, a Velouté makes up the sauce, which is basically just a thickened stock.

Velouté = Roux blond + white stock (veal, chicken, or fish)
Roux blond = butter + flour (Flour and butter are cooked to a light color)


From a Velouté sauce, you can make a Sauce au vin Blanc (fish stock, wine, egg yolk, and cream), an Allemande sauce (veal stock, egg yolks, and cream) or a Suprême sauce (chicken stock, mushrooms, and cream).

Watch a pro make Velouté sauce
Here's a video showing how to make a Velouté sauce.

Fluted mushrooms
This dish is garnished with mushrooms that are preferably fluted, thank you very much. Well, I’ve never fluted a mushroom before, but I found some good information about how to do this fancy technique (after the fact). I thought my fluted mushrooms looked pretty good, and then I saw the ones in this link! I think I should now go out and buy 10 pounds of mushrooms to practice.

SaffronSaffron flavors the recipe I found for Filets de sole Dieppoise. I’ve always known it’s an expensive spice, but I didn’t know it comes from the stigmas in a small crocus (Crocus sativus). The three red stigmas in each crocus are hand-picked and dried. 14,000 stigmas equals 1 ounce, which equals about 5,000 crocuses. According to this link, it takes an acre of crocuses to produce 1 pound of saffron. Personally, I think saffron’s overrated. It tastes like hay, but it looks pretty. I guess it has that going for it!

Fennel
Fennel is the workhorse in this dish, providing the subtle hint of anise or licorice flavor.

Recipe for Filets de Sole Dieppoise
adapted from Link


Serves 2

2 sole fillets, 2 lb each
2 ounces shrimp
2 ounces button mushrooms, fluted
1 shallot, chopped
1 cup dry white wine
Juice from ½ a lemon
¼ cup cream
2 oz butter
2 oz flour
2 cups fish stock
Saffron
Fennel powder
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Note: Some recipes for Filets de sole Dieppoise call for mussels for a garnish as well. I forgot to pick some up when I was at the fishmonger, so I left them out.

Fillet the sole.

Flute the mushrooms and cook on low heat for 10 minutes with the half the shallots, a touch of lemon juice, a bit of butter, and salt and pepper. Keep warm.

Peel the shrimp. Add the shrimp to the baking dish about half-way through the cooking time.

For the sole, sprinkle the bottom of a baking dish with the remaining half of the chopped shallots. Pour the white wine and ¼ cup of fish stock in the baking dish. Fold the sole fillets in half and put in the baking dish. Squeeze half a lemon over the fish. Cover with parchment paper, if desired. Put in oven for 5-8 minutes, until cooked through.

Meanwhile, melt the butter. Then add the flour and prepare the roux. Let it cook gently for five minutes until it’s a blond color. Add the stock, saffron, fennel, and shallots into the roux and let cook slowly five minutes. Remove from the heat and add the whipping cream. Add the saffron and ground fennel, to taste. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve, if desired.

Tasting Notes
I wasn’t expecting this dish to be so tasty. I had procrastinated working on this dish, and didn’t really want to make it. But this was the most amazing fish and sauce combination I’ve had in a very long time. I thoroughly enjoyed it, even though the smell in the house was overpowering! I had leftover sauce and extra shrimp, so the next day I enjoyed shrimp with the Dieppoise sauce, which were excellent leftovers. The hint of licorice from the fennel was delicious. It was creamy, rich, subtle, and amazing.

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $354.37 + $21.82 = $376.19

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 28 tablespoons

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