Showing posts with label Gourmet Cooking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gourmet Cooking. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Mignons de Porc Arlonaise (Pork Tenderloins with Beer)

Mignons de Porc Arlonaise (Pork Tenderloins with Beer)This pork tenderloin with beer dish is a crowd-pleaser. But not for the cook since it involved turning the potatoes! Now if I weren't going through this Le Cordon Bleu curriculum, I wouldn't bother turning the potatoes into the perfectly seven-sided cylindrical shapes that they're supposed to be. In fact, even when I try, they don't look turned. The potatoes are boiled in salted water until tender.

After browning the meat on all sides, it's roasted in the oven for about 15 minutes. While it's roasting, I made the sauce. Sugar and vinegar are melted and caramelized (without burning as I did the first time!), and then the beer is added carefully since it sputters. This is reduced by two-thirds before stirring in the liquid gold of veal stock, which is further reduced by half.

When all the vegetables are julienned, they're sautéed in butter. Season everything and let it all mellow together in the pan before serving.

Recipe: Mignons de Porc Arlonaise (Pork Tenderloins with Beer)

Serves: 6

Mignons de Porc Arlonaise (Pork Tenderloins with Beer) mise en place

Ingredients:

18 small waxy potatoes (red or white)
Salt
2 pork tenderloins, 1½ pounds each, trimmed of fat
Freshly ground pepper
6 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the Sauce:
2 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup wine vinegar
¾ cup dark beer
1¼ cups Brown Veal Stock

¼ pound carrots, cut into julienne
¼ pound celery, cut into julienne
¼ pound leeks (white part only), cut into julienne
¼ pound mushrooms, trimmed, rinsed, dried, and cut into julienne
¼ pound turnips, cut into julienne

You can find the recipe for Mignons de Porc Arlonaise (Pork Tenderloins with Beer) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Mignons de Porc Arlonaise (Pork Tenderloins with Beer)Tasting Notes
The sauce had a hint of sweetness from the sugar and sour from the vinegar that paired well with the pork. My favorite part of the dish was the vegetables. They were crisp, tender and buttery. But the best part of this meal was how easy it was to prepare…in one hour I had a gourmet dinner on the table.

Next Class (I'm on vacation next week.)
• Profiteroles au Chocolat (Profiteroles with Vanilla Ice Cream and Hot Chocolate Sauce) pages 304-305

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $1,453.13 + $18.00 (pork) + $11.18 (other ingredients) = $1,482.31
($4.86 per serving)

Butter used so far: 12 pounds, 28.5 tablespoons

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Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Canard aux Navets (Roast Duck with Glazed Turnips)

Canard aux Navets - French Roast Duck with Glazed Turnips Recipe Canard aux Navets (Roast Duck with Glazed Turnips)This next class is all about roasting and frying. First up is roast duck with glazed turnips. I've made duck before and was astounded by all the fat that melted off of it, so I was a little worried about making duck again. And turnips are not a favorite at our house, but glazed I thought they might be more to our liking.
"The origins of this popular French dish are believed to date back to the Roman gourmand Apicius." Saveur magazine
Duckling
The duck I found at the grocery store comes from the oldest duck-breeding farm in Canada, Brome Lake, Quebec. Luckily, I was able to find it ready to roast and not frozen.

I read on the duck producer's website that the fat in duck is good fat, full of omega oils. This recipe, however, renders the fat and then gives you a chance to remove it so your sauce at the end is not at all fatty.

"With a rubber duck, one's never alone."
Reducing and Trussing
While you're preparing the duck, I reduced the veal stock by half. [I like to use a ruler to measure the liquid in the pot so that I can register what half means. So if the liquid reaches the 1-inch mark, I keep checking the liquid until it has reduced to the half-inch mark. I probably don't have to be so precise, but when I make a recipe for the first time, I like to follow the rules!] This was the last of the veal stock in my freezer that I had made in April, so it's time to get out the pots and make a new batch.

The first step to prepare the duck is to remove the wishbone. I tried, but had no luck. As it turns out, removing the wishbone is planning ahead since it helps the carving process later according to this post). Maybe next time.

"Backbone beats wishbone every time."
After removing the wishbone [if you can], truss the bird so that it cooks evenly and looks good straight from the oven. This is much easier than removing the wishbone. Just tie the wings and legs as tight to the body as you can.

Searing
Next, I seared the meat on each side in the roasting pan on top of the stove. The roasting pan must be large enough to hold the meat so that it doesn't stew in its own juices.

Then I added the carrots and onions. At this point, everything goes in the oven to roast. I turned it every 20 minutes and basted it regularly with the reduced veal stock.

After 40 minutes, I removed the duck and poured off the sauce into a gravy separator. Then I returned the sauce to the pan, leaving the fat behind. I basted it with more veal stock and continued roasting it until cooked through, about 30 to 40 minutes longer.

After cooking, the meat should sit for about 15 minutes so that the juices get reabsorbed back into the flesh.

Glazing
While the meat is roasting, it's time to prepare the veg. I tried practicing my turning skill and still need lots more practice. After boiling them in salted water for about 8 minutes until tender, I fried them in some butter and sugar, caramelizing and then glazing them with some more veal stock.

Saucing
After the ducks finished cooking and while they were resting, I made the sauce, which is just a pan sauce. I poured off the juices from the roasting pan into a bowl. Then I deglazed the pan with the wine, scraping up all the bits that were stuck to the pan. After a splash of water, I returned the juices to the pan along with a Bouquet Garni and let this mixture reduce for about 15 minutes. After seasoning, the sauce was ready to strain and serve.

Sauce for Canard aux Navets (Roast Duck with Glazed Turnips)

Recipe: Canard aux Navets (Roast Duck with Glazed Turnips)

Serves: 6

Canard aux Navets (Roast Duck with Glazed Turnips) mise en place

Ingredients:

2 ducks, 4 to 5 pounds each
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs thyme
2½ cups Brown Veal Stock
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 carrots, chopped coarse
2 onions, chopped coarse

For the glazed turnips:
3 pounds small white turnips
Salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons Brown Veal Stock

½ cup dry white wine
1 Bouquet Garni
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
½ bunch watercress for garnish

You can find the recipe for Canard aux Navets (Roast Duck with Glazed Turnips) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Canard aux Navets (Roast Duck with Glazed Turnips)Tasting Notes
For duck, this was tasty, especially with the sauce. And glazed turnips are much better than unglazed ones. Overall, this was a good, well-rounded, satisfying meal. The kids told their friends that their mom made them eat duck (my youngest daughter's favorite animal) the night before and all their friends were shocked. I guess I'm the "meanest mom on earth" today! We'll see what they say when rabbit is on the menu in Class 26!

Next Week (January 14)
• Poulet en Cocotte Grand-Mère (Braised Chicken Casserole with Bacon, Mushrooms, Potatoes, and Onions) pages 296-297

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Running total: $955.50 + $22.09 (1 duck) + $9.27 (turnips) + $4.73 (sauce) = $991.59

Butter used so far: 8 pounds, 24 tablespoons

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::Whisk Wednesdays::
We're cooking our way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, we try to find a suitable substitution. Find out more here.

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Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Whisk Wednesdays—Sauce Béarnaise (Warm emulsified sauce derived from Hollandaise sauce) with Steak

Béarnaise Sauce – A Classic French Culinary Delight
Béarnaise sauce

Now that we've completed the mother sauces, we're into the derivative ones and Béarnaise is one of the best. It's based on hollandaise but has an added flavor boost from a reduction of wine, shallots, wine vinegar, tarragon, and black peppercorns. Again, it’s an emulsification of eggs and butter, but with extra flavor from the herb and vinegar reduction. Traditionally, it’s served on beef, but it would be delicious on anything!

There are variations to the traditional recipe. Sometimes chervil, thyme, parsley, or bay is used as well as tarragon. Some use red wine vinegar or tarragon vinegar. Some recipes call for clarified butter and some for regular, room temperature butter. Some call for a blender while the more traditional recipes use just a whisk.

The last time I made Béarnaise was for the millennium celebrations in 1999. I remember using a blender and serving this sauce over tenderloin with shrimp and scallops on top as a garnish (à la The Keg). Pretty ritzy, eh? I haven’t made it since, but now it may be on our regular menu!

History
According to History of Sauces by Linda Stradley (What’s Cooking America), the sauce was created by Chef Jules Colette at his restaurant Le Pavillon Henri IV and served in the 1830s, but the sauce was named after Henri IV who was a gourmand born in Béarn, France and was King of France from 1589 to 1610.

"Don't be saucy with me Béarnaise..."
I had trouble when I made Béarnaise the first time. I added the clarified butter too fast, and it threw a tantrum and broke. I quickly consulted the cookbook, which told me to throw an ice cube into the mix to cool it off. This didn’t work. The next thing the cookbook suggested was to take a new pot, add a bit of cold water, and then add a ladle full of the sauce and whisk. Once that was smooth, add a bit more broken sauce to the fresh pot. Slowly, and ever patiently I whisked. And it worked! Thankfully, my eggs didn’t curdle so I was good to go. By this time, the T-bone steaks were ready, everyone was hungry, and I took a few casual photos and dug in. Later, looking at the photos, I realized I should have spent more time on the photo shoot!

A second Béarnaise sauce for lunch later in the week, no sauce tantrums (was I more patient or was it the room temperature butter?), more time with the photo shoot, and this time sauce spread leisurely over fried chicken, and again it was delicious!

I had some leftover Béarnaise sauce and attempted to re-heat it for supper. I put the burner on low, poured my leftover sauce into a clean pot, added 1 tablespoon of very hot water, and whisked like mad. Without stopping, I continued whisking, dipping my finger in for a heat-and-taste test, until the sauce was warm enough to drape over my leftover chicken. It worked, and it was delicious!

"A Béarnaise sauce is simply an egg yolk, a shallot,
a little tarragon vinegar, and butter,
but it takes years of practice for the result to be perfect."
–Fernand Point–
Who is Fernand Point?

"I believe Fernand Point is one of the last true gourmands
of the 20th century. His ruminations are extraordinary and thought-provoking. He has been an inspiration for legions of chefs.”

–Thomas Keller–
{On a side note, earlier this week I even made Eggs Benedict for one! It’s extremely dangerous to know how to whip this up on short notice given the amount of butter and the fact that it’s swimsuit season in these parts!}

Choking on Artichokes
On the artichoke front, I choked. This was the first time I’ve cooked artichokes! And I failed. First off, I had to get some tweezers to dig out the sliver of a prickle from one of the buggers. Then, I carefully de-leaved them until I thought I’d gotten to the light green center. After rubbing them lovingly with lemon, I plopped them into boiling water to cook. 30 minutes later, I took them out. I tried to dig out the middle to put the lovely un-broken Béarnaise sauce in, destroying 2 of the 3 chokes in the process. Then, when I finally sat down to eat, I daintily put one in my mouth and couldn’t chew it! Since artichokes are in the recipe for next week, I may try it again, but I need help.

Watch a Pro
Here’s a video showing how to make Béarnaise sauce. This video shows the solids from the reduction being strained and then thrown out, but the version in Le Cordon Bleu at Home keeps these in the sauce, which adds a nice texture to the sauce.

Links
12 Tips You Need To Make Perfect Bearnaise Sauce 
Béarnaise sauce
What is Béarnaise Sauce?

Recipe: Sauce Béarnaise (Warm emulsified sauce derived from Hollandaise sauce) with Steak

Béarnaise sauce mise en placeYou can find the recipe for Béarnaise sauce in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). You can also find a recipe for Salmon with Béarnaise sauce here. To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesday group fared with this week's recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Béarnaise and steakTasting Notes
The hint of tarragon with its licorice taste, the sharpness of the shallots, and the creaminess of the eggs and butter make Béarnaise sauce the most amazing and delicious sauce yet! I was glad the sauce broke so that I could figure out how to fix it, and I was relieved that it worked. This is definitely a keeper and one I might even try serving for dinner guests, if I’m brave.

Next Week (July 2)
• Sauce Mayonnaise (Basic emulsified sauce) page 30-31
• Salade Messidor (Summer Harvest Salad)

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Running total: $446.39 + $5.15 (Béarnaise) + $4.35 (Artichokes) = $455.89

Butter used so far: 6 pounds, 5 tablespoons

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Next Week (July 2)
• Sauce Mayonnaise (Basic emulsified sauce) page 30-31
• Salade Messidor (Summer Harvest Salad)

Whisk Wednesdays:
If you would like to check out the other Whisk Wednesdays bloggers to see their take on Béarnaise sauce, click Kayte.




Saturday, April 19, 2008

Filets de sole Dieppoise (Sole fillet served with a white wine sauce)




Sole Dieppoise is a dish from the port of Dieppe in northern France where sole is easier to find than here in Ottawa, it seems. I’ve been putting off working through this fish dish for some time now. However, now that I’ve made it I wish I hadn’t waited so long to give it a try. It’s delish!

Sole
Sole is a white, flat fish. The word “sole” comes from sandal since that’s what this fish looks like. The fish has two sides: the underside is a beautiful shimmering white, the upperside (with the eyes) is a camouflage pattern. However, I only know this from reading about it!

The fishmonger I went to didn’t have a whole sole (joking he only had half a soul left!) for me to practice filleting. He also didn’t have any sole fillets, so I ended up buying snapper fillets and a whole Red Snapper to try filleting. The snapper fillets were my backup knowing I wouldn’t be all that successful at creating an edible fillet on my first try.

I don’t have a picture of how my fillets turned out since they weren’t photogenic! I even watched a couple of videos beforehand to try to hone my skills, but I need more practice!

Watch a pro fillet a sole
Here's a great video showing how to fillet a flat fish.

Stock
The two main stocks in French cuisine are white (fond blanc) and brown (fond brun). The key difference between the two is that brown stock is browned in the oven first. Ingredients for white stocks are put in a stock pot with the liquid. The meat used in white stocks could be veal, chicken, or fish. For this dish, we’re using the fish stock (or fumet) made for the last class.

Velouté sauce
In the world of sauces, the first celebrity chef was Antonin Carême (1784-1833), known as the founder of classic French cookery, and is also known to have made Napoleon's wedding cake. Now there’s a catering job! Carême designated four classic sauces: Béchamel, Velouté (veh-loo-TAY), Espagnole, and Allemande.

Then along came Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935), a young, ambitious, whipper-snapper who updated the list of mother sauces to five: Béchamel, Velouté, Espagnole, Hollandaise, and Tomato. Since Allemande is derived from Velouté, it was replaced with Hollandaise and Tomato was added.

For this dish, a Velouté makes up the sauce, which is basically just a thickened stock.

Velouté = Roux blond + white stock (veal, chicken, or fish)
Roux blond = butter + flour (Flour and butter are cooked to a light color)


From a Velouté sauce, you can make a Sauce au vin Blanc (fish stock, wine, egg yolk, and cream), an Allemande sauce (veal stock, egg yolks, and cream) or a Suprême sauce (chicken stock, mushrooms, and cream).

Watch a pro make Velouté sauce
Here's a video showing how to make a Velouté sauce.

Fluted mushrooms
This dish is garnished with mushrooms that are preferably fluted, thank you very much. Well, I’ve never fluted a mushroom before, but I found some good information about how to do this fancy technique (after the fact). I thought my fluted mushrooms looked pretty good, and then I saw the ones in this link! I think I should now go out and buy 10 pounds of mushrooms to practice.

SaffronSaffron flavors the recipe I found for Filets de sole Dieppoise. I’ve always known it’s an expensive spice, but I didn’t know it comes from the stigmas in a small crocus (Crocus sativus). The three red stigmas in each crocus are hand-picked and dried. 14,000 stigmas equals 1 ounce, which equals about 5,000 crocuses. According to this link, it takes an acre of crocuses to produce 1 pound of saffron. Personally, I think saffron’s overrated. It tastes like hay, but it looks pretty. I guess it has that going for it!

Fennel
Fennel is the workhorse in this dish, providing the subtle hint of anise or licorice flavor.

Recipe for Filets de Sole Dieppoise
adapted from Link


Serves 2

2 sole fillets, 2 lb each
2 ounces shrimp
2 ounces button mushrooms, fluted
1 shallot, chopped
1 cup dry white wine
Juice from ½ a lemon
¼ cup cream
2 oz butter
2 oz flour
2 cups fish stock
Saffron
Fennel powder
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Note: Some recipes for Filets de sole Dieppoise call for mussels for a garnish as well. I forgot to pick some up when I was at the fishmonger, so I left them out.

Fillet the sole.

Flute the mushrooms and cook on low heat for 10 minutes with the half the shallots, a touch of lemon juice, a bit of butter, and salt and pepper. Keep warm.

Peel the shrimp. Add the shrimp to the baking dish about half-way through the cooking time.

For the sole, sprinkle the bottom of a baking dish with the remaining half of the chopped shallots. Pour the white wine and ¼ cup of fish stock in the baking dish. Fold the sole fillets in half and put in the baking dish. Squeeze half a lemon over the fish. Cover with parchment paper, if desired. Put in oven for 5-8 minutes, until cooked through.

Meanwhile, melt the butter. Then add the flour and prepare the roux. Let it cook gently for five minutes until it’s a blond color. Add the stock, saffron, fennel, and shallots into the roux and let cook slowly five minutes. Remove from the heat and add the whipping cream. Add the saffron and ground fennel, to taste. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve, if desired.

Tasting Notes
I wasn’t expecting this dish to be so tasty. I had procrastinated working on this dish, and didn’t really want to make it. But this was the most amazing fish and sauce combination I’ve had in a very long time. I thoroughly enjoyed it, even though the smell in the house was overpowering! I had leftover sauce and extra shrimp, so the next day I enjoyed shrimp with the Dieppoise sauce, which were excellent leftovers. The hint of licorice from the fennel was delicious. It was creamy, rich, subtle, and amazing.

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Running total: $354.37 + $21.82 = $376.19

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 28 tablespoons

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