Showing posts with label Historical Recipes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Historical Recipes. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Whisk Wednesdays—Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup)

Velouté Agnès Sorel – A Classic Cream of Chicken Soup Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup)White soup. White stock. White chicken. White button mushrooms. And a touch of pink from the ham. This is Velouté Agnès Sorel, a cream of chicken soup. Agnès Sorel was a mistress of French King Charles VII in the 1400s and this is one of several dishes named after her.

This could also be the soup mentioned in Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice:

“As for the ball, it is quite a settled thing;
and as soon as Nicholls has
made white soup enough
I shall send round my cards.”
1. Make Stock
The first step is to make stock. Since I’m currently not in my kitchen with access to all the chicken stockpiled in my freezer from earlier lessons, I made some fresh chicken stock to start this soup. {I’m visiting family and friends in Saskatchewan and having fun raiding all the cupboards for food props!} Although the first thing I was supposed to do was truss the chicken, it came that way from the grocery store so I just had to plop it into my sister’s large stock pot.

2. Prep Garnish
Next, I prepped the mushrooms and ham (since tongue, which is mentioned as an alternative, is not something I really want to eat!), slicing them into julienne. When the chicken was poached, I sliced off the breast meat and cut it into julienne too. Still practicing that julienne!

3. Make Liaison
The last step is to make the liaison, which is a mixture of cream and egg yolks that thickens the soup and adds a richness of flavor. This is the trickiest part of the recipe since the eggs can curdle. Slowly whisking some hot stock into the cream and egg mixture is key. After “tempering” the cream and egg mixture by bringing it up to a similar temperature as the stock, I combined the rest of the stock and liaison in the pot. Then, I stirred and stirred and stirred and watched it carefully on the heat to thicken it a bit more. I was careful not to let it boil, but it never thickened as much as I expected it to.

Although the name of this soup says that it is a Velouté, there is no flour in the ingredient list to make a blond roux. I imagine if I added 2 tablespoons of flour, it would be a thicker soup, but the soup doesn’t need to be thicker.

“it is the duty of every housekeeper to learn the art of soup making”
~ Fannie Farmer in The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book (1918) ~

Recipe: Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup)

Ingredients for Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup)You can find the recipe for Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with this week's recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup)Tasting Notes
This was a delicate, smooth soup that absorbed a smoky flavor from the ham. The chunks of chicken, mushrooms, and ham made it meal-worthy. I added more salt to boost the flavor, but it was a creamy, delicious soup that I’d love to make again. Coriander instead of parsley and coconut milk instead of cream and a few other Thai ingredients could quickly turn this into one of my favorite Thai soups: Tom Kha Gai!

Next Week (July 30)
• Bisque de Langoustins (Langoustine Bisque) pages 185-186

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Running total: $482.99 + $17.49 (stock) + $5.80 (soup) = $506.28

Butter used so far: 6 pounds, 14 tablespoons
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Monday, April 7, 2008

Salade Francillon (Potato and mussel salad)

Salade Francillon is a simple but costly entrée that was made famous in a play called "Francillon" by Alexander Dumas. Dumas was also the author of "La Dame aux Camelias" ("Camille"), which was the basis for Verdi's 1853 opera, La Traviata. Here is a quote about how to make this salad that was described by one of the actors in the play:

from a review of the play “Francillon”
published in The New York Times on February 13, 1887

Once again, I get to use truffles, but this time they’re poached in Champagne. I didn’t splurge on actual Champagne produced exclusively within the Champagne region of France, but instead I bought a small bottle of “sparkling wine” from Italy. After poaching the truffles, I had a glass leftover that I enjoyed while putting this salad together!

Truffles, Champagne, mussels. This dish has been described as a special occasion salad. In my books, it’s just a fancy potato salad.

Recipe for Salade Francillon

Serves 2-3

Potatoes:
1 pound baby potatoes
2 cups chicken stock
1 teaspoon salt

Mussels:
2 pounds mussels

Truffles:
2 truffles
1 cup Champagne

Vinaigrette:
¼ teaspoons fresh tarragon, finely chopped
½ tablespoon parsley, finely chopped
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil

You can find a recipe at Food & Wine.


Tasting Notes:
The mussels give this potato salad its main dish appeal. The truffles give it an air of sophistication, but it would be nice without them as well if you don't have any hiding in your pantry.
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Running total: $308.28 + $30.15= $338.43

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 21 tablespoons

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Sunday, April 6, 2008

Salade des nonnes (Rice salad with truffled chicken)

I’m so glad “Salade des nonnes” came with a translation, because I couldn’t find any information about “nonnes” at all. “Salad of nuns” is what it translates to. In my research, I found this quote:

John Parkinson, the 17th century grandaddy of all garden writers, recommended lettuces for "Monkes, Nunnes and the like of people... to keep them chaste." Poor Nunnes. Lettuce on its own is not much of a diet.
In one of my cookbooks, I found a recipe for chicken salad with truffles, so I’m going with that, substituting rice for the potatoes in the recipe.

Truffles
I’ve never worked with truffles before, but I was game to give it a go. Truffles (and not the chocolate kind) grow underground at the roots of Oak, Chestnut, Hazel, and Beech trees. The biggest harvests are mostly in the Provence and Perigord regions of France. They are a “gourmet mushroom” with a strong, earthy, pungent taste. Prices can be as high as $2,500 per kg. The one I bought wasn’t that pricey—only $8! For centuries in Europe, female pigs and dogs have been used to help find truffles because some gourmet truffles produce a scent that mimics a male pig sex hormone. Here’s a good article about truffles, if you want to find out more information.

Rice
Rice is such an easy side dish to prepare. To add extra flavor, the onions are sautéed in butter for a bit, then the rice is sautéed until translucent. Steamed with a bouquet garni adds even more flavor to the rice.

Chicken
In this recipe, the chicken is poached in an aromatic broth. Poaching is a low simmer, not a boil. After being immersed in this flavorful broth, the chicken comes out tender and tasty.

Mayonnaise
The trickiest part of this recipe was the mayonnaise. Mayonnaise is an emulsion—a mixture of two substances that don’t want to be together, namely oil and egg yolks. The flavorings of mustard and lemon juice or vinegar try to act as go-betweens to get these two substances to talk to each other. All ingredients should be at room temperature.

I first tried making it after watching this video. I even used my immersion blender, but it came out runny. After starting over, I tried the classic, patient method of adding the oil one drop at a time and whisking until my arm dropped off. This worked.

If the sauce breaks, add a teaspoon of cold water. If this doesn’t work, whisk 1 teaspoon broken mayonnaise into 1 teaspoon mustard to emulsify it. Then add it to the rest of the mayonnaise. If this doesn't work, try Hellman's Mayonnaise!

Recipe: Salade des nonnes (Rice salad with truffled chicken)

Serves 2-3

Chicken:
1¼ pound chicken
½ medium carrot, coarsely chopped
1 medium leek, coarsely chopped
½ stalk celery, coarsely chopped
½ large onion, studded with a whole clove
1 Bouquet Garni
Salt
½ tablespoon peppercorns, crushed


Rice:
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter
½ medium onion, chopped
1 cup long-grain rice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cups water
1 Bouquet Garni


Vegetables:
2-3 heads Belgian endive
½ tablespoons strained lemon juice
6 ounces celery hearts

Garnish:
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 black truffle, sliced
Micro mesclun


Mayonnaise:
1 egg yolk
½ tablespoon Dijon mustard
Freshly ground pepper
½ cup vegetable oil
Juice of ¼ lemon, strained

You can find the recipe in from Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).


Tasting Notes:
One truffle for this recipe cost more than the chicken itself! But, it was a tasty meal. The rice, the chicken, the slightly bitter Belgian endive, combined with the mayonnaise and the earthy yet crispy truffle made for a delightful salad.

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Running total: $281.42 + $26.86 = $308.28

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 21 tablespoons