Showing posts with label French cooking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label French cooking. Show all posts

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Charlotte aux Pommes, Crème Anglaise au Rhum (Apple Charlotte with Rum-Flavored Crème Anglaise)

Charlotte aux Pommes, Crème Anglaise au Rhum (Apple Charlotte with Rum-Flavored Crème Anglaise)Paul Brent, a seasoned and well-respected reporter in the Ottawa area, called me on Wednesday to see if I would like to be interviewed for a segment about blogging, cookbooks and Julie and Julia. The next day, he came to my home to film me making a recipe, as well as discuss my role as a food blogger in this new era of blogging and books. One of the questions Paul was exploring is this:
Will blogging force cookbooks into extinction when you can click and cook from a laptop?
I hope not. I still use a cookbook regularly. I love browsing the pages of beautiful and inspiring cookbooks before bed. I like to write notes in the margins. The stains on the pages of my cookbooks give them personality. I even have several cookbook ideas that I'm exploring and hope to get published someday!

The food blogging world brings new stories and visuals to classic and well-loved cookbooks. Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I is complete with directions, techniques, instruction, and information, but it doesn't have any pictures. Now, through food blogs, there are hundreds of photographs and stories from kitchens around the world that work as a companion to this hefty volume. 
The online food world is another resource for becoming a better cook. Television didn't replace books and neither will blogs.
What's your opinion?
I made this Apple Charlotte last year as part of the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum, but this time I didn't make a classic Charlotte. Instead, I made little tarts using my square tart pan. This was so much simpler than using a Charlotte mold and just as tasty.

Recipe: Charlotte aux Pommes, Crème Anglaise au Rhum (Apple Charlotte with Rum-Flavored Crème Anglaise)

adapted from Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link)

Serves: 6

Charlotte aux Pommes, Crème Anglaise au Rhum (Apple Charlotte with Rum-Flavored Crème Anglaise) mise en place

Ingredients:

For the Apple Compote:
3 pounds Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and diced
¼ cup water
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter
¼ cup apricot jam (I used cinnamon crabapple jelly.)
2 tablespoons dark rum (I used white rum.)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

9-10 slices firm white bread
½-¾ cup clarified butter (I used regular butter.)

For the Crème Anglaise:
1 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 egg yolks
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons dark rum (I used white rum.)
Prepare the apple compote: Combine the apples and the water in a saucepan. Cover and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes. Stir the apples occasionally with a wooden spoon to keep them from sticking to the pan. Add the sugar, butter, jam, rum, and vanilla. Raise the heat to medium and continue cooking, uncovered, until all the moisture has evaporated, about 20 minutes.

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Remove the crusts from the bread and trim the bread into 4-inch squares. Brush the pieces of bread on both sides with the butter and press into a tart pan (or square tart pan). Fill the bread shells with the apple compote.

Bake the charlotte 15 minutes, then cover with parchment paper or foil to keep the exposed ends of bread from burning. Continue baking until the bread is golden, about 20 minutes longer. Serve with crème anglaise.

For the crème anglaise: Heat milk and vanilla extract in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Bring mixture to a boil. Remove immediately from the heat and let steep for about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk the yolks and sugar until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is a pale yellow color, about 2 minutes. Continue whisking and slowly drizzle in a bit of the hot milk mixture to temper, or warm, the eggs so they won't curdle. Keep whisking and slowly pour in the remaining milk mixture.

Return the mixture to the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard coats the back of a spoon. Do not boil since it will curdle if boiled. (If it does curdle, either strain or blend in a blender, adding cream if necessary. Or, start over.)

Remove the crème anglaise from the heat and strain it into a bowl. Let it cool in a bowl set of an ice water bath to stop the cooking, stirring occasionally to prevent a skin from forming. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. It keeps for a couple of days.





Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Pintade à la Cévenole (Guinea Hen with Mushrooms and Chestnuts)

Pintade à la Cévenole (Guinea Hen with Mushrooms and Chestnuts)
Photographing poultry is not easy. Desserts are so much prettier.

Try this:
Click here for images of chicken.
Click here for images of dessert.
I rest my case.

This is the last in the series about poultry (next week is frog legs!), and the recipe calls for guinea hen (or guinea fowl). I like my white meat, and this bird is generally dark meat so I had a feeling I wouldn't like this meal.

For this dish, you will have to sauté and set aside many times, which for some reason reminded me of square dancing calls (not that I square dance, but I have watched relatives!).

Circle right.
Bacon, blanch and fry.
Set aside.
Pearl onions, peel and sauté.
Set aside.
Mushrooms, sauté.
Set aside.
Guinea hen, dry, dredge and sauté.
Set aside.
With half the wine, deglaze.
Half Sashay.
Add Bouquet Garni, lardons, pearl onions, and mushrooms.
Split Two.
Cover and bake.
Promenade.
Pan drippings, reserve.
California Twirl.
Chestnuts, sauté.
Set aside.
Arrange chestnuts, lardons, pearl onions, mushrooms, and guinea hen in casserole and bake.
Couples Circulate.
For the sauce, shallots, sauté.
Rollaway.
With the last of the wine, deglaze.
Dosado to a wave.
Pan drippings, pour in.
Weave the Ring.
Reduce.
Pass thru.
Whisk in butter and serve.
Alamo Style.

Recipe: Pintade à la Cévenole (Guinea Hen with Mushrooms and Chestnuts)

Serves 6 (picture shows half a recipe)

Pintade à la Cévenole (Guinea Hen with Mushrooms and Chestnuts) mise en place

Ingredients:

¾ pound slab bacon, sliced ¼ inch thick
12 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ pound pearl onions, peeled
1 pound oyster mushrooms, trimmed, rinsed, and dried
¾ pound button or quartered large mushrooms, trimmed, rinsed and dried
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 guinea hens, 2 pounds each
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 cups red wine
¾ pound whole shelled chestnuts
3 shallots, chopped fine
1 tablespoon parsley, chopped

Flour for guinea hens

Unsalted butter, softened, for parchment paper

You can find the recipe for Pintade à la Cévenole (Guinea Hen with Mushrooms and Chestnuts) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Pintade à la Cévenole (Guinea Hen with Mushrooms and Chestnuts)Tasting Notes
This dish needs whole chestnuts. (Do.not.use.puréed.chestnuts.that.smell.like.cat.food.) I learned this week I'm not a fan of guinea hen and puréed chestnuts. I may try making this dish again using chicken and whole chestnuts (as called for in the recipe).

The sauce is the star of the dish. It's a beurre rouge that is rich, velvety and easy.
Ladies do and the gents you know,
It’s right by right by wrong you go,
And you can’t go to heaven while you carry on so,
And it’s home little gal and do-si-do,
And it may be the last time, I don’t know,
And oh by gosh and oh by Joe.
—(Ernest Legg, WV)

Barn DanceNext Class
• Cuisses de Grenouille aux Herbes (Herbed Frog Legs) from Chocolate & Zucchini

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $1,161.36 + $22.93 (guinea hen) + $23.72 (other ingredients) = $1,208.01

Butter used so far: 10 pounds, 4 tablespoons

. . . . . . . . . .
::Whisk Wednesdays::
We're cooking our way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, we try to find a suitable substitution. Find out more here.

. . . . . . . . . .

More to Explore:





Thursday, February 12, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Snapper with fennel en papillote

Snapper with fennel en papilloteCooking en papillote means putting the ingredients inside a parchment paper pouch and baking it in the oven. The paper holds in the moisture while cooking. This moisture flavors the fish along with the aromatics and liquid to make a tender and subtle tasting meal. This is a good method for any delicate fish and can even be used for chicken, vegetables and fruit. Before baking the fish in its pouch, the fennel is sliced and pan-fried in butter and then spooned into each pouch. By far, this is one of the simplest recipes so far!

Here is Alton Brown's episode about this cooking method: The Pouch Principle.

Here is a great article about it: The Envelope, Please: Cooking En Papillote.

Recipe: Snapper with fennel en papillote

Serves: 4

Snapper with fennel en papillote mise en place

Ingredients:

2 x ¾ pound snapper fillets
2 large bulbs fennel
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
16 fresh basil leaves
4 tablespoons dry white wine
4 teaspoons Pastis or Ricard (optional)

You can find the recipe for Snapper with fennel en papillote in the bookLe Cordon Bleu Complete Cook Home Collection (affiliate link).Snapper with fennel en papillote To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Snapper with fennel en papilloteTasting Notes
This was a very easy dish to make and would be great for entertaining since you can prepare it ahead of time. However, I prefer fish with sauce, and there wasn't a sauce with this one. I loved the fennel though. This dish is perfect for Valentine's Day since the shape of the parchment is a heart. Also, since it's enclosed in an envelope, it would be a perfect Oscar Party meal.

Next Class
Blanquette de Lotte aux Petits Légumes (Monkfish in White-Wine Cream Sauce with Vegetables) pages 408-409

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $1,063.16 + $14.19 (fish) + $6.37 = $1,083.72
($5.14 per serving)

Butter used so far: 9 pounds, 28 tablespoons

. . . . . . . . . .
::Whisk Wednesdays::
We're cooking our way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, we try to find a suitable substitution. Find out more here.

. . . . . . . . . .

More to Explore:





Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Truite aux Amandes (Trout with Almonds)

Truite aux Amandes (Trout with Almonds): A Simple, Flavorful Dish Truite aux Amandes (Trout with Almonds)It's all about fish for the next four weeks. And this week's trout couldn't be easier. I thought last week's pork dish was easy, but this one beats that! All you need is some browned butter and almonds (and trout, of course) and you have trout almondine.

First, you season the trout with salt and pepper. Then, dredge it in flour and pan-fry it in butter and oil. After it's finished cooking, you let it rest while you brown some butter and almonds. Sprinkle some parsley around, squeeze a lemon on top, and you've got lunch or dinner ready in no time flat. It's tasty hot or cold too.

The hardest part is cleaning the fish, which is probably what this class is all about over at Le Cordon Bleu. I wimped out on this step and was lucky enough to find trout already cleaned at the grocery store. Instead, I watched this video about how to clean a rainbow trout.

Recipe: Truite aux Amandes (Trout with Almonds)

Serves: 6 (I halved the recipe.)

Truite aux Amandes (Trout with Almonds) mise en place

Ingredients:

1 trout, about 1½ pounds
½ lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
8 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 ounces sliced almonds
½ tablespoon chopped parsley
Parsley for garnish

You can find the recipe for Truite aux Amandes (Trout with Almonds) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) or here. To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Truite aux Amandes (Trout with Almonds)Tasting Notes
I loved this dish, and I'm planning on using more browned butter and sliced almonds on other types of fish, chicken and vegetables. Affordable, easy and delicious. This is definitely a keeper.

Next Week (February 4)
• Bar à la Normande (Sea Bass with Mushrooms and Cream) pages 180-181

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $1,038.85 + $7.02 (trout) + $3.42 (other ingredients) = $1,049.29

Butter used so far: 9 pounds, 16 tablespoons

. . . . . . . . . .
::Whisk Wednesdays::
We're cooking our way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, we try to find a suitable substitution. Find out more here.
. . . . . . . . . .

More to Explore:





Friday, January 23, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Poulet en Cocotte Grand-Mère (Braised Chicken Casserole with Bacon, Mushrooms, Potatoes, and Onions)

Poulet en Cocotte Grand-Mère: Braised Chicken with Bacon, Mushrooms, Potatoes, and Onions Poulet en Cocotte Grand-Mère (Braised Chicken Casserole with Bacon, Mushrooms, Potatoes, and Onions)Humble roast chicken was on the menu last week, but even though I made it while my mom was visiting, I didn't have time to write up my post in-between shopping, eating out and seeing movies. So here it is more than a week late. However, we all enjoyed eating it.
"A simple roasted chicken really satisfies that innermost desire of food.
It represents that place in my life I'm most comfortable."
Thomas Keller
Roasting
According to Barbara Kafka's Roasting-A Simple Art, roasting means food that's cooked with high heat and some fat (either from the meat or added to the pot). If the heat isn't hot enough, the food steams in its own juices.

I rinsed, dried, trussed, sprinkled (with salt and pepper), doused (with butter and oil), flavored (with bay and thyme in the cavity), and browned the chicken on top of the stove on each side. Then roasted it in a 350˚F oven for 45 minutes covered.

eGullet, and Thomas Keller suggest cooking it at a high-heat (450˚F), so I'll have to give that a try next time.
"You can measure a chef by how well they do a simple roast chicken."
— Anthony Bourdain in Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook
Grand-mère
While the chicken was roasting, I prepared the Grand-mère part of this dish, which is the garnish of bacon, mushrooms, potatoes, and onions. We covered grand-mère as a garnish in class 3, but this time the garnish came together better. Each item is cooked separately and then thrown together at the end. Warning: This means lots of pans and dishes!

Pan #1: Pearl onions. Peeling the pearl onions took a lot of time. (I've been told there exists bags of already peeled pearl onions in the freezer section of some grocery stores. I've yet to see that here in Ottawa.) After peeling the onions, I covered them with water, added a pinch of salt and a knob of butter and cooked them over high heat until the water had evaporated. Then I continued cooking them until they turned a golden brown.

Pan #2 and #3: Potatoes. While the onions were cooking, I practiced turning potatoes, which also took a lot of time! Then, I put them in a pan of cold salted water, put the lid on and brought them to a boil. After blanching the potatoes for a few minutes, I fried them in Pan #3 with 2 tablespoons of butter until golden brown and al dente.

Pan #4: Mushrooms. In yet another pan, I fried the mushrooms in butter and seasoned them with salt and pepper.

Next up was the bacon. Although the recipe called for blanching it to remove some of the smokiness (which would have meant another pan), I just draped the slices over the chicken half-way through cooking the bird and then left the cover off until the juices ran clear.
"Granny would undoubtedly have cooked everything in the same pot, but professionals cook the vegetables separately to perfection and then simmer them with the chicken for only a short time before serving. A bit complicated for Granny, perhaps, but she would most certainly have approved of the taste."
Le Cordon Bleu at Home
Finishing
When the chicken was cooked through, I let it sit under aluminum foil while finishing the sauce. This ensured that the juices were redistributed before carving.

I poured off the sauce and removed any fat. Then, I returned the sauce to the pan and deglazed it with ¼ cup water. I added the chicken back in, along with the onions, potatoes, and mushrooms, and let this mixture cook for about 15 minutes until the potatoes were cooked through. A sprinkle of chopped parsley, and it was ready to serve.

Recipe: Poulet en Cocotte Grand-Mère (Braised Chicken Casserole with Bacon, Mushrooms, Potatoes, and Onions)

Serves: 6

Poulet en Cocotte Grand-Mère (Braised Chicken Casserole with Bacon, Mushrooms, Potatoes, and Onions) mise en place

Ingredients:

4½ pound chicken
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 sprig thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
8 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
24 pearl onions
2½ pounds waxy potatoes (red or white)
1 pound button or quartered large mushrooms, trimmed, rinsed, and dried
10 ounces slab bacon, sliced ¼ inch thick
1 tablespoon chopped parsley

You can find the recipe for Poulet en Cocotte Grand-Mère (Braised Chicken Casserole with Bacon, Mushrooms, Potatoes, and Onions) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Tasting Notes
This was an incredibly delicious roast chicken. It was tender, the sauce was perfect, and the vegetables around it were tasty. I've made roast chicken (and bought several rotisserie roast chickens from the deli), but this was the best I've ever tasted.
"Poultry is for the cook what canvas is for the painter."
Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $1,003.98 + $34.87 = $1,038.85

Butter used so far: 9 pounds, 8 tablespoons

. . . . . . . . . .
::Whisk Wednesdays::
We're cooking our way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, we try to find a suitable substitution. Find out more here.
. . . . . . . . . .

More to Explore:





Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Whisk Wednesdays—Entrecôte Lyonnaise (Steak, Lyonnaise style)

Entrecôte Lyonnaise (Steak Lyonnaise Style) – A Classic French Recipe Entrecôte Lyonnaise (Steak, Lyonnaise style)This next class is all about grilling and browning. And again it's another steak (entrecôte is traditionally a rib steak) that's smothered in onions, à la Lyonnaise. One dictionary said that Lyonnaise means "cooked with onions". And this recipe has lots of onions. Eight of them for a full recipe. Some are used with the potatoes as a side dish and the rest are used on the steak.

Boiling and frying the potatoes
First I boiled some potatoes in their jackets (skins). After they were almost done, I took them out and let them cool before peeling them. (I cooked all but one potato too long so the next stage of finishing them was tricky.)

Then, I cut the almost-cooked potatoes into slices and fried them in a bit of butter and oil. In a separate frying pan, I fried one of the onions in butter and oil. Finally, at the end, I tossed the onions and potatoes together.

Here's a video showing how to make lyonnaise potatoes.
LYONNAISE POTATOES.
For lyonnaise potatoes chop an onion fine; fry it brown in a tablespoonful of butter; add another tablespoonful to the iron spider after the frying, and let the butter become very hot. Then cut six whole boiled potatoes into thick or half inch slices, and lay them in the spider, which should be ample enough to hold them without lapping over another. Let them fry brown on both sides, tossing them occasionally to prevent them burning. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of parsley over them, and serve at once. They should be very hot when brought on the table.
— from a cookbook called Recipes Tried and True, 1894.
Grilling the meat
Grilling doesn't use much oil, just enough to keep everything from sticking to the pan or grill. Grilling is high, fast heat and barbecuing is low, slow heat. Watch this video.

Grilling is another dry heat cooking method where the heat source is below the meat being cooked. You can use gas or charcoal grills, or even a George Forman grill. I scraped the ice off the barbecue cover and used the barbecue to grill the meat on a medium-high heat.

However, before I did that, I seared the steaks in a frying pan on the stove so that I would have some tasty bits (fond) to add flavor to the Lyonnaise part of this recipe ‑ the caramelized onions.
Here is some information to determine when a steak is done. After the steaks were finished cooking, I removed them to a warming plate.

Caramelizing the onions
This is the best part. The smell of onions cooking on the stove is a crowd-favorite. After searing the steak, I added the onions with more butter and cooked them until they were golden. Then, I seasoned them with salt and pepper and added the rest of the ingredients (wine, vinegar, and the stock) and cooked this until all the liquid had evaporated and the onions had absorbed this entire rich flavor.

Here's a video showing how to caramelize onions.

Recipe: Entrecôte Lyonnaise (Steak, Lyonnaise style)

The ingredients shown in the photo are for a half recipe (serves 3).

Entrecôte Lyonnaise (Steak, Lyonnaise style) mise en placeYou can find the recipe for Entrecôte Lyonnaise (Steak, Lyonnaise style) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Tasting Notes
I loved the side dish of potatoes and onions, and I loved the caramelized onions on top of the steak. I'm picky about beef. If it's not tenderloin, I don't tend to like it. Next time, I'll buy a better cut of steak, but this is an easy and delicious meal with the right cut of beef.
"We may live without poetry, music, and art;
We may live without conscience, and live without heart;
We may live without friends; we may live without books;
But civilized man cannot live without cooks."
‑ Owen Meredith
Next Week (November 19)
• Gratin Dauphinois (Potato Gratin with Garlic and Cream) page 498

Lyon is said to have the highest ratio of restaurants to people anywhere in France.
. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $849.06 + $22.57 (steak) + $1.49 (potatoes) + $2.67 (onions) = $875.79

Butter used so far: 8 pounds, 11 tablespoons

. . . . . . . . . .
::Whisk Wednesdays::
We're cooking our way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, we try to find a suitable substitution. Find out more here.
. . . . . . . . . .

More to Explore:





Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Whisk Wednesdays—Navarin d'Agneau Printanier (Lamb Stew with Spring Vegetables)

Lamb Stew with Spring VegetablesThis is a stew to celebrate Spring, but we're deep into Fall now in Eastern Canada. So I've mixed the celebrations and used a maple syrup sap bucket to show off the stew and placed autumn leaves around its base.

We're still focusing on braising and stewing this week, and true to French cooking form, everything is cooked and seasoned separately and then assembled together at the end. Doing this adds a depth of flavor and ensures every element tastes its best at the end, although it requires more dishes than just one crockpot!

Lamb
The recipe calls for lamb. Lamb meat is the meat from a young sheep (less than 12 months of age). A mutton is a sheep older than 1 year old and has a more gamey, strong flavor.
"Hey, salad's got nothin' on this mutton." — Jerry Seinfeld, The Wink
Instead of mutton, get a lamb shoulder and cut it into cubes. Preferably, get a Spring lamb: "a milk-fed lamb, usually three to five months old, born in late winter or early spring and sold usually before July 1st". (Wikipedia) I cheated and found lamb shoulder already cut into cubes and trimmed.

Sear, Roux, and Stew
Last week we made a stew too, but it was a white stew (which meant it was blanched first). This week, it's a brown stew so the meat is seared first. When searing, you should see the bottom of the pan so that the meat browns and doesn't poach.

After searing, I let the lamb have a bit of a rest on a plate. Then, to the hot pan I added the butter, onions, and garlic and then sprinkled it with flour, and cooked this mixture for a couple of minutes, scraping up the lamb fond left from searing. (Like a roux, the flour helps to thicken the juices.) Then I added the seared lamb back in with water to cover, plus some tomato paste and aromatics like thyme, bay, salt, and pepper. Like a stock, you're adding flavor to the base. After I brought this to a boil, I reduced the heat and let it simmer for 25 minutes. Now, the "stew" work was done.

Vegetables
Next were the vegetables. This dish has a ton of veggies. Each needs their own pot! Get the dishwasher empty and ready for dirty pots!

First, the carrots, turnips, and potatoes had to be turned. Of course, if you're doing this just for fun, you don't have to turn them, but if you want to pretend you're at culinary school, you must turn them. So turn them, I tried. Then, I popped them each into their very own pot, covered with cold water, a dab of butter, and a sprinkle of salt pepper and they were ready to glaze: boil, reduce heat, and simmer until water has evaporated.

The green beans and peas are blanched, separately, each in their very own pot, of course.

The potatoes got to share the pot with the stew for 30 minutes at the end of the cooking time.

Finally, all the vegetables are allowed to swim together in the stew for 5-10 minutes. Season and this stew was ready to serve.

Recipe: Navarin d'Agneau Printanier (Lamb Stew with Spring Vegetables)

Lamb Stew with Spring Vegetables mise en placeYou can find the recipe for Navarin d'Agneau Printanier (Lamb Stew with Spring Vegetables) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) or here. To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with this week's recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Tasting Notes
I love how the vegetables are prepared separately from the stew (notwithstanding all the dishes!). In most stews, the vegetables are a limp, inedible mass at the end of stewing, so this was a treat (especially for someone like me who doesn't like lamb!). At least there was something for me to enjoy about this stew. The lamb was nicely tender and flavored, but lamb is just a tad too gamey for me. I still remember all the hamburgers and meat pies I ate in Australia that had a slight taste of lamb. They put lamb meat in everything {well, almost}. But the techniques of searing, stewing and preparing the vegetables separately are my takeaways from this recipe.

[Skipping a week] Next Posting Week (October 15)
Some things have come up at home, so I'm taking a week off. I will be moving the schedule out a week. If you're following along, feel free to do a rewind for next week or take a vacation too!
• Merlans Colbert (Deep-fried Whiting with Tartar Sauce) pages 290-291

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $817.60 + $34.96 = $852.56

Butter used so far: 8 pounds, 4 tablespoons

. . . . . . . . . .
::Whisk Wednesdays::
We're cooking our way through a cooking school curriculum using the Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook. The "classes" are based on the Le Cordon Bleu curriculum found online and used as a guideline. Not all the items in the curriculum are in the cookbook, but most are. Where the items are not in the book, we try to find a suitable substitution. Find out more here.
. . . . . . . . . .

More to Explore:





Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Whisk Wednesdays—Brochet au beurre blanc (Whole Poached Pike with White Butter Sauce)

Poisson au beurre blanc et rouge (Poached Fish with White and Red Butter Sauce)

Poisson au beurre blanc et rouge (Poached Fish with White and Red Butter Sauce)

Beurre blanc (burr BLAHN or burr BLAHNGK), which means "white butter", is a classic French sauce that turns half a pound of butter into something "light" and delicious. It's similar to Béarnaise sauce {without the tarragon or eggs} since it's a reduction of vinegar or white wine and shallots into which butter is whisked in, but it's a little easier since no eggs are involved. Again, we're emulsifying this week!

This recipe called for brochet, or pike. The River Loire, which is the longest in France, is home to numerous fish, including pike. Unfortunately, the Loire River is too far from Ottawa and pike was not to be had. After seeing numerous recipes with beurre blanc over a variety of fish, I decided to go with our favourite — Salmon with a beurre blanc — and for a color difference — Sea Bass with a beurre rouge.

A bit of history

There is some controversy about the history of beurre blanc. One theory is that the Anjou region is the birthplace of this sauce...

Recipe

Click to enlarge image

Poisson au beurre blanc recipe image

Poisson au beurre blanc (Poached Fish with White Butter Sauce)You can find the recipe for Brochet au beurre blanc (Whole Poached Pike with White Butter Sauce) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes

Beurre blanc is delicate, light, and full of fat! But it's so much easier than making a Béarnaise...

Running total: $711.62 + $4.50 (court bouillon) + $12.55 (fish) + $6.63 (beurre blanc) = $734.85

Butter used so far: 7 pounds, 27 tablespoons

Poisson au beurre blanc et rouge (Poached Fish with White and Red Butter Sauce)Beurre blanc (burr BLAHN or burr BLAHNGK), which means "white butter", is a classic French sauce that turns half a pound of butter into something "light" and delicious. It's similar to Béarnaise sauce {without the tarragon or eggs} since it's a reduction of vinegar or white wine and shallots into which butter is whisked in, but it's a little easier since no eggs are involved. Again, we're emulsifying this week!

This recipe called for brochet, or pike. The River Loire, which is the longest in France, is home to numerous fish, including pike. Unfortunately, the Loire River is too far from Ottawa and pike was not to be had. After seeing numerous recipes with beurre blanc over a variety of fish, I decided to go with our favourite — Salmon with a beurre blanc — and for a color difference — Sea Bass with a beurre rouge.

{Confession time: Although I should have practiced my fish filleting, I chose the easy route and bought fillets ready to poach. I did, however, buy a trout that needs knife attention and will give that a go sometime this week.}

A bit of history
There is some controversy about the history of beurre blanc. One theory is that the Anjou region is the birthplace of this sauce and that it was first served at the restaurant "La Poissonnière" in Anger. The more popular theory is that around the beginning of the 20th century, a cook named Clémence Lefeuvre served this sauce at her restaurant "La Buvette de la Marine" on the banks of the Loire River near Nantes. The legend says that she meant to make a Béarnaise sauce but forgot to add the tarragon and egg yolks.

A bit of butter Beurre blanc is mostly butter, so it's important to use one you like. No margarine allowed! Jean-Yves Bordier makes the "best butter in all of France”. He comes highly recommended by many foodies, including Clotilde Dusoulier and David Lebovitz.

Butter sculptureSince Bordier's butter isn't imported to any stores in Ottawa, I decided to try my own taste test and gathered up all the varieties of butter I could find in the Byward Market in Ottawa. I found seven varieties: three unsalted and four salted. Then, at home, we enjoyed a taste test. {Have you ever tasted seven different butters at one sitting?!}

Click to enlarge image
Butter taste testI was amazed to find each one had its own distinct flavor and qualities. One tasted acidic, another nutty, one was bland, another rich. There was also no agreeing on which one was best, so I made the executive decision as the "chef" and picked my favorite unsalted one to use in the beurre blanc sauce (Saputo Unsalted at $5.99 a pound, which is $1.50 more than the brand I usually buy!).
"It was the best butter,”
the March Hare meekly replied
— Lewis Carroll
Most beurre blanc sauces call for unsalted butter, but I read one post by Ms. Glaze's Pommes d'Amour where she uses salted butter without fail. {I'll have to give that a taste test someday.}

A bit of cream…or not
Traditional beurre blanc doesn't include cream, but many recipes (including the one in Le Cordon Bleu at Home which uses crème fraiche) include it to help stabilize the sauce and guard against the sauce breaking. The cream provides more emulsifying power. {You can find out more great science facts behind this sauce in Cookwise by Shirley O. Corriher.}

If cream is added, the sauce is called Beurre Nantais.
A bit of wine
I made both a beurre blanc using white wine and white-wine vinegar and a beurre rouge using red wine and red-wine vinegar. The pink salmon had the the beurre blanc, and the white sea bass was ladled with beurre rouge.

Beurre blanc et rougeFor the beurre blanc, I used Muscadet (Muss-ka-day), which means "wine with a musk-like taste", and it's the wine usually used in this sauce. It's a dry French white wine made in the Loire Valley near the city of Nantes that uses the Melon de Bourgogne grape varietal. I was able to find a good bottle of Muscadet at a reasonable price at my local wine store.

For the beurre rouge, I used a rosé from the Languedoc region in France.

"Le vin est la plus saine des boissons."
"Wine can be considered with good reason as the most healthful
and the most hygienic of all beverages."
— Louis Pasteur (printed on the cork of the Muscadet)
A bit of know-how
The first step in making beurre blanc is reducing the shallots, wine, vinegar, thyme and bay leaf until it's a syrupy glaze. Once you have the glaze, let this mixture cool for a bit and remove the thyme sprig and bay leaf. [If called for in the recipe, add the cream or crème fraiche. I used cream since I didn't have any crème fraiche.] Then slowly whisk in the softened butter, a bit at a time. Whisk constantly. Take the pan on and off the heat to whisk in the butter without melting it. Make sure you don't let the mixture boil or it will separate, and it cannot be re-emulsified at this point. Taste. Add salt. Taste. Add more butter if it's too acidic. Taste.

The sauce will separate above 58ºC (136ºF) and solidify below 30ºC (86ºF).
When you whisk cold butter into a hot sauce, it's called monter au beurre (mounting a sauce with butter). {I tried making this sauce once with cold butter and once with softened butter and found it much easier when the butter was soft. I had to use the heat more often and whisk more vigorously when I used the cold butter.}

Traditionally, the sauce is not strained. If the shallot is chopped fine enough, it doesn't distract from the texture of the sauce.

Beurre blanc is best served immediately, but can be held in a thermos or over a simmering water bath. If re-heated, it will break easily. Since it doesn't contain eggs there isn't the same worry of bacteria growth that you have with Béarnaise and Hollandaise.

To save time if you're entertaining, you can prepare the reduction of shallots, wine, vinegar, thyme, and bay leaf ahead of time and whisk in the butter just prior to serving.

A bit of variety
To change the taste of beurre blanc, you can use all sorts of different flavors in the reduction or whisk in one of the compound butters mentioned last week instead of plain unsalted butter. I used the Maître d'Hôtel compound butter in a third version that I made, which definitely gave it a flavor boost. Here are some other ideas for flavoring beurre blanc.

A bit of entertainment
Here's a great video showing how to make beurre blanc.

A bit of fish poaching
To cook the fish, the recipe calls for a court bouillon, which is a fancy name for cooking broth. After you've brought the broth ingredients to a boil and simmered them for about 15 minutes to marry the flavors, you let the mixture cool a bit before adding the fish. {I threw the pot into the refrigerator to speed up the process since I was running behind.} Add enough water to cover the fish, put the lid on and bring to a boil. Remove the pot from the heat and let cook for about 30 minutes, covered. Pretty simple.

Recipe" Brochet au beurre blanc (Whole Poached Pike with White Butter Sauce)

Click to enlarge image
Poisson au beurre blanc (Poached Fish with White Butter Sauce)You can find the recipe for Brochet au beurre blanc (Whole Poached Pike with White Butter Sauce) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with this week's recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Tasting Notes
Beurre blanc is delicate, light, and full of fat! But it's so much easier than making a Béarnaise. I enjoyed the beurre blanc made with the compound butter, but my husband liked the beurre rouge best. These sauces definitely make plain, old, boring fish more delicious to eat! Too bad about the calories!

Next Week (September 10)
• Salade de Sardines Crues aux Epinards (Spinach Salad with Fresh Sardines) page 197-198 {discussion of Vinaigrettes page 55}…Just so ya know: I won't be using the sardines!

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $711.62 + $4.50 (court bouillon) + $12.55 (fish) + $6.63 (beurre blanc) = $734.85

Butter used so far: 7 pounds, 27 tablespoons
. . . . . . . . . .

More to Explore:





Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Whisk Wednesdays—Sauce Hollandaise (Warm emulsified sauce) and Sauce Moutarde

Whisk Wednesdays – Hollandaise Sauce & Eggs Benedict
::Whisk Wednesdays::
Welcome to Whisk Wednesdays!

Eggs Benedict with Hollandaise SauceHollandaise sauce
This week it's Hollandaise sauce, another of the five mother sauces. (Velouté, Espagnole, Béchamel, and Tomato are the others.) Hollandaise is similar to mayonnaise and lemon curd, but it's served warm.

Hollandaise is basically a sabayon, which is a foamy, emulsified mixture of yolks and liquid (in this case water). If you were to add sugar and a sweet wine, you would have zabaglione. But, today we're adding a ton (only half a pound) of butter to the sabayon.

History and Tips
Hollandaise dates back to the 17th century and used to be named Sauce Isigny, which is a town in Normandy famous for its butter. However, during World War I, France could no longer produce butter so they imported it from Holland and the name stuck. (from Linda Stradley at What's Cooking America)

Hollandaise is a tricky beast and requires constant attention, sorta like kids. You must whisk constantly to ensure the eggs don't stick to the bottom of the pan and to keep the texture smooth, not grainy.

There are different ways of making hollandaise: with a double boiler or directly over the flame. With clarified butter or with cubes of unsalted butter. With a blender or just a whisk.

Today, I tried putting the yolks directly over the flame (or burner, in my case!) and whisked constantly. I also made two batches: one using clarified butter and the other using butter cubes. The sauce with the clarified butter was runnier, plus I prefer the flavor from using the milk solids from good 'ol butter (and I'm not wasting any precious butter).

Earlier this year, I made lemon curd for a lemon cream tart and at the same time tried making a hollandaise sauce following the method suggested for Dorie's The Most Extraordinary French Lemon Cream Tart. It turned out great. This is yet another option for making hollandaise.

Hollandaise Trouble
Many things can go wrong with this sauce, but here are the tips I found to try to correct the problem.

• If curdled, blend in a blender although the texture won't be the same. You may just want to start over.

• If broken, try whisking in a little cream or water. The sauce may break if it becomes too hot. In this case cooling it off with cold water or an ice cube might do the trick.

• If too thick, add a little boiling water.

• If too thin, you may have added the butter too fast.

If you have the time (and an extra half pound of butter lying around), just start over! That's what I ended up doing after finding my first batch too runny. I put it back on the stove to reheat since it had been sitting out too long for the photo shoot(!), which quickly caused it to break into many pieces!

Watch a Pro
• Here is a great video showing how to make hollandaise.

• Here is another video with Alton Brown demonstrating hollandaise.

Links
I also found these cool links:

• Here's one that shows a picture of deep-fried hollandaise!

• Here's a good article with more background information about hollandaise.

Recipe: Hollandaise


Hollandaise sauce mise en placeYou can find the recipe for Hollandaise in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home. To see how the rest of the group fared (all 3 of us!) with this week's recipe, click here and then click on each blogger!

Sauce Moutarde

Sauce MoutardeFor a variation, you can add Dijon mustard (or whatever mustard you want) to taste. This version tasted great on a ham roast we had. I also tried it on asparagus and the Eggs Benedict and loved it on these too.

Recipe: Eggs Benedict

Serves: 1

1 English Muffin, toasted
1-2 slices back bacon, cooked
1 poached egg
Hollandaise sauce
Freshly ground black pepper

Eggs Benedict with Hollandaise SauceSauce Moutarde on Asparagus and HamTasting Notes
Eggs Benedict always seemed so special when we went out for breakfast. Everyone else would order it, and I would order my French Toast. Now, though, I've discovered how much I love this heart-unfriendly breakfast fare and plan on making it more often. The hollandaise was rich and buttery, smooth and creamy, with a slight tang from the lemon. The hardest part of this dish is getting the poached egg properly poached (not too underdone and not too overdone). I still need practice on this front.

The mustard version was delicious too, perfect for a variation on Eggs Benedict or with ham and asparagus.

The best tip I learned was to use a thermos to store the Hollandaise sauce in until you're ready to serve. Brilliant, I tell you.

Next Week (June 25)
• Sauce Béarnaise (Warm emulsified sauce derived from Hollandaise sauce) on page 250

• Coeur de Filet Henri IV (Filet mignons with artichokes and Béarnaise sauce)

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $440.68 + $3.31 (Hollandaise) + $2.40 (Eggs Benedict) = $446.39

Butter used so far: 5 pounds, 29 tablespoons

. . . . . . . . . .

Check out the other posts for Whisk Wednesdays:

Grandma's Kitchen Table - Hollandaise Sauce and Moutarde Sauce
InsomniMom - Hollandaise and Sauce Moutarde

More to Explore: