Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Whisk Wednesdays—Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes)

Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes) Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes)Consommé Madrilène is a crystal-clear soup that is pure and clean-tasting, typically flavored with tomato, and served chilled. But getting this crystal-clear liquid requires fat-free stock and hamburger patties!

I remember eating Campbell’s Consommé, made famous by Andy Warhol, for dinner when my mom was on her Weight Watcher’s kick. I actually enjoyed it with egg noodles, but I wonder if she knew how much sodium was in a small serving of this soup: 890 mg or 37%! Homemade consommé is definitely the way to go to avoid all that sodium, and it’s not as hard to make as its reputation suggests.

"…your soup should be light, piquant in flavor and temptingly appetizing – a bland prelude to the feast. Campbell’s famous French chefs are "at home" in making such delicate and difficult blends, giving to them just the proper strength and flavor, yet keeping them delightfully light and dainty."
-1923 ad for Campbell's Consommé Soup-
Consommé, which means "to consume", is a classic soup and "one of the most highly regarded and appreciated soups in the world" (Wikipedia). In fact, Consommé Olga was served as a second course to the first class customers the night the Titanic sunk.

The Base: Stock

Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes)The first step is to make the stock. Again, since I'm not in my own kitchen with access to all the stock in my freezer that I made for previous lessons, I had to make a new batch of chicken stock. By making this a day before the consommé, I was able to skim off the layer of fat that congealed on top after it cooled in the refrigerator. The less fat in the stock, the clearer the consommé.

The next day, it was time for consommé. I seasoned the stock with salt, which I found perplexing since most seasoning is done to taste after simmering and just before serving. After seasoning, I brought it to a boil.

The clarifier and flavor booster: Raft

Raft for Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes)The mixture of egg whites, lean ground beef {the less fat the better}, and aromatics to flavor the consommé such as leek, celery, carrots, and herbs is known as clearmeat. It slowly coagulates and rises to the top and forms a crust that’s known as the "raft".

Egg whites coagulate between 144 and 149°F. 
Salt lowers the coagulation temperature. 
The purpose of the raft is to clarify the stock. The fresh blood in the ground beef and the egg whites both contain albumin, an important protein that transports lots of things to various parts of the body, and in a raft for a consommé it acts like a natural filter or net, collecting all the impurities in the liquid as it coagulates. The egg yolks contain fat, which you don’t want in the consommé, and the egg whites contain proteins. Some chefs use just egg shells in the raft since they contain albumin. {I would love to know who came up with the idea that fresh blood and albumin clear a stock!}

"The idea of making goop that looked like a ground-beef milk shake and dumping it into perfectly good stock offered childish pleasure‑‑like making mudpies or dropping very large melons from very high places or seeing how far apart you and a friend could play catch with a raw egg before it smashed in one of your hands. And yet, despite these crude pleasures‑‑indeed, because of them‑-the end result was one of ultimate refinement."
-Michael Ruhlman in The Making of A Chef-
I cut the vegetables in the clearmeat in a fine dice, practicing my brunoise skills, so that more flavor gets extracted in a short amount of time. However, the addition of vegetables is controversial.

"It will be seen that I do not refer to any vegetable for the clarification. If the [stock] is well carried out, it should be possible to dispense with all supplementary flavoring, and, the customary error of cooks being rather to overdo the quantity of vegetables‑‑even to the extent of disguising the natural aroma of the consommé‑‑I prefer to entirely abandon the idea of vegetable garnishes in clarifications, and thus avoid a common stumbling block".
-Escoffier-
Leaving Escoffier behind, and getting back to Le Cordon Bleu at Home, I chopped the tomatoes. Tomatoes give the consommé its rich color and the acidity in them helps form the raft (similar to adding vinegar when poaching eggs) and makes the clear soup look shiny.

To the clearmeat, I added some water and hot stock to bring the temperature of it up. Then, I added the clearmeat to the hot stock and stirred it around. Before the mixture came to a boil, I stirred the consommé so that the egg whites didn’t stick to the pot and burn and to ensure the protein was distributed evenly. After it started to boil, I turned the heat down to a simmer and left it alone to do its magic (making sure everyone in the house knew not to touch the pot or burner!), since stirring would make the consommé cloudy and boiling causes any fat in the mixture to emulsify. As well, I kept checking the pot to make sure the raft had a chimney so that the liquid could bubble through.

When they’re done straining the consommé , some chefs toss the used raft with pasta and serve it to the dishwashers!
After an hour, the raft had done its important jobs: flavoring and clarifying the consommé.

The result
To remove the consommé from underneath the raft is difficult to do. I used a trick from my homemade-wine-making days. I picked up a piece of tubing from the hardware store, and I siphoned the clear consommé from one pot on the table to a cheesecloth-lined strainer in a pot sitting on the floor. It worked like a charm. I had a pot full of clear consommé.

"Consommé has to be done perfectly, or not at all." 
Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes)
"Rule of thumb: you can read the date on a dime at the bottom of a gallon." (Link)
Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes)
This isn't a gallon (only 4 cups), and you can't read the year on the dime, but you can read the recipe!

How much time will it take
Some people might be intimidated by this recipe since it seems to require a lot of time. However, most of the time the stock or consommé is simmering on the stove and requires little of your time.

The stock required about 30 minutes of preparation time. Cooking time was 3 hours (but required only a little babysitting.)

The consommé required about 45 minutes of preparation time. Cooking time was 1 hour (but again only required a little babysitting). And to finish the consommé, the garnish required about 30 minutes.

Total time: about 6 hours, but only 1½ hours of hands-on time since the rest was just babysitting.

Links
Here’s a video of how to make consommé. Here’s a great article on how to make consommé. And here's one on the history of consommé.

Recipe: Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes)

Mise en Place for Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes)You can find the recipe for Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with this week's recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes)Tasting Notes
The consommé had a mild but flavorful taste with a subtle herbal hint. The garnish of tomatoes and red pepper cut into a brunoise added color and bite to this refreshing soup. It was cool, clean, and light for a hot, summer day.

"It’s cool! It’s refreshing! It’s delicious!"
1947 ad for Campbell's Consommé Jellied Soup
Next Week (August 13)
• Soupe à l'oignon gratinée (Onion soup) pages 48-49

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $604.24 + $21.11 (chicken stock) + $8.13 (consommé) = $633.48

Butter used so far: 6 pounds, 26 tablespoons
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More to Explore:





Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Tuesdays with Dorie—Black-and-White Banana Loaf

Black-and-White Striped Banana Loaf Recipe Black-and-White Striped Banana LoafBananas, a touch of rum and lemon, and chocolate combine in this delicious banana loaf.

A while ago I saw a blog post about zebra cake. Farida, from Farida's Azerbaijani Cookbook posted about a zebra cake she carefully made by adding a tablespoonful at a time of white batter and chocolate batter. When I went to make this Black-and-White Banana Loaf for Tuesdays with Dorie, it seemed like the right time to try it out. However, I failed to double-check the method and just did layers of white and chocolate batter instead. Although this gave me a neat-looking striped cake, I’d love to try making it again using Farida’s technique. Here’s another person who gave zebra cake a try and put her results and method on Flickr.

This recipe made 12 cupcakes using Square Shaped Cupcake Liners by Wilton. I also baked half in white party cups. Since these party cups had straight sides, they worked better for showing off the stripes because the stripes were more even. I baked them for 30 minutes.

Campfire Banana Splits
We’ve been spending a lot of time around a campfire this summer. And although s’mores are the most popular, my personal favorite is campfire banana splits, another take on bananas and chocolate.

1 large banana, unpeeled, stems removed
chocolate pieces (use your favorite)
mini marshmallows
whatever else you’d like (crushed Oreos, coconut, Smarties, nuts)

Spray aluminum foil.

Slice the peel of the banana from one end to the other, and slice the banana inside into chunks. Stuff the banana with chocolate, marshmallows, and whatever else you want. Wrap with the aluminum foil.

Place on the grill or right in the coals of the fire.

Leave in long enough to melt the chips and the marshmallows.

Recipe

Ingredients for Black-and-White Banana LoafYou can find the recipe for Black-and-White Banana Loaf in the book Baking: From My Home to Yours (affiliate link) by Dorie Greenspan. To see how the rest of the TWD group fared with this week's recipe, click here and then click on each blogger! Thanks to Ashlee from A Year In The Kitchen who chose the recipe for this week.
Black-and-White Striped Banana LoafTasting Notes
These were delicious with the chocolate and banana flavor in each bite. We took these camping and enjoyed them as part of our breakfast. I'll definitely be making these again!

Recipe for Next Week (August 12)
Blueberry Sour Cream Ice Cream on page 434 chosen by Dolores of Chronicles in Culinary Curiosity.

More to Explore:





Friday, August 1, 2008

Tuesdays with Dorie {Rewind}—Brown Sugar-Pecan Shortbread Cookies

Brown Sugar-Pecan Shortbread Cookies Recipe Brown Sugar-Pecan Shortbread CookiesSince the goal of the Tuesdays with Dorie baking group is to bake through the complete cookbook of Dorie Greenspan’s Baking: From My Home to Yours (a five-year project!), I thought I should start catching up with the recipes I missed before I joined.

In the beginning, the group was one: Laurie of quirky cupcake who came up with this brilliant idea. The first recipe she tackled was the Brown Sugar-Pecan Shortbread Cookies. On the dedication page in Dorie's cookbook, these cookies are shown in the picture as a favorite of her son's, so it seems a fitting start to such a project.

I’ve always loved shortbread, especially at Christmas, and have a recipe I always make, but it was nice to try someone else’s for a change.

Recipe: Brown Sugar-Pecan Shortbread Cookies

Ingredients for Brown Sugar-Pecan Shortbread CookiesYou can find the recipe for Brown Sugar-Pecan Shortbread Cookies in the book Baking: From My Home to Yours by Dorie Greenspan.

Another Shortbread Recipe
Here is my recipe for shortbread that I’ve used without fail every Christmas:

8 ounces cold butter, cut into small cubes
½ cup sugar
pinch salt
2 cups flour

Combine butter and sugar in mixer. Add salt and just enough flour to combine so that the dough comes together.

Place dough on lightly floured work surface. Knead a bit to smooth edges.

Roll to ⅜-inch thickness and cut into desired shape. Return to refrigerator to chill 20 minutes before baking in a preheating even at 300°F for 20-30 minutes.

Brown Sugar-Pecan Shortbread CookiesTasting Notes
This was a tasty shortbread with the pecan crunch and hint of cloves. Chilling the dough after rolling is key in this recipe since it tends to spread when baking if you don’t. Also, use cold, unsalted butter. Work dough as little as possible, but just enough to hold its shape. Bake at a low temperatures. Bake only until cookies begin to brown. The paler the color, the better.

More to Explore:





Thursday, July 31, 2008

Another Award or Two

I'm home on the prairie and enjoying the big, expansive blue sky and the field grasses. I wish there were more hours in the day to do everything I want to do {online}, but I've been enjoying a good book, sitting by the beach, watching the kids play in the water, and catching up with everyone. While I've been visiting family and friends, the food blogging community continues to inspire me.

Chriesi from Almond Corner, who is a blogger I admire and check regularly to see what’s cookin’ in her kitchen, has given me the Kreativ Blogger award. I’m honored to get an award from a blogger I so respect and admire. The originator of the Kreative Award is a very talented Danish woman named, Hulda Verden.

Now I get to pass this award along to a few of my favorite bloggers:

Luscious: amazing and creative food photography by a duo of a cook and a photographer

Bittersweet: beautiful photography, plus Hannah has a published cookbook

Aaplemint: Kate has stunning photography in every post

Thanks, Chriesi!

Also, Andreea from Glorious Food and Wine has given me the "E for Excellent" award. Based in Brussels, Andreea has an amazing list of food photography links and a wonderful food blog dedicated to gourmet food and restaurant reviews. Since I’ve already passed along this award, I’ll just say thanks, Andreea! You’re a sweetie!



Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Whisk Wednesdays—Bisque de Homard (Lobster Bisque)

Bisque de Homard (Lobster Bisque) – A Luxurious French Soup Bisque de Homard (Lobster Bisque)Bisque de Homard, or Lobster Bisque, is a once-in-a-lifetime soup. At $16 per bowl and $97 for a tureen, the word “soup” seems too simple and unworthy a description. Technically, it’s a bisque, but it needs a name deserving of its expense and grandeur. So you know what you’re getting into. So you’re prepared to savor every sip. So you’re prepared to slave in the kitchen for a whole day!

A bisque is a thick, creamy soup, traditionally made with seafood, such as lobster, crab, langoustine, shrimp, or crayfish. Unlike a chowder, it doesn’t contain any potatoes. Recipes for bisque in the 18th century included the ground shells of the seafood to thicken the soup. In this recipe, the shells are used to flavour the broth, but then strained out.

The lobster

Lobster
“You’re not going to use live lobster, are you?” {dad}
“I don’t want to be here for the execution!” {sister}
“Isn’t that torture?” {nephew}
“Did they scream?” {mom}

First, the lobster. At $15.99 Canadian per pound {flown in from Nova Scotia to the prairies}, these two little innocent homards set me back $65. Boxed up and on ice, they came home with me twitching their antennae and looking uncomfortable.

After seeing what was in my cardboard box, my nephew looked at me curiously, possibly wondering if I’d decided to bring home a new pet. When I told him why there was a pot of water bubbling and boiling on the stove, he again looked at me with his big, blue eyes and said, “Isn’t that torture?” Oh, this wasn’t going to be easy. I took a deep breath, avoided the question, and picked up the smaller of the two, quickly squeezing it into the not-so-big stock pot and held the lid on tight (so it wouldn’t escape?!).

After a steam bath of only two minutes, it was bright pink and ready to be cracked, arched, pulled, separated, and unhinged all in an effort to get the meat from the exoskeleton! I had lobster juice in my hair, on my nose, and even on my big toe!

In the middle of this dismemberment, my daughter walked in and asked what I was doing. Not wanting to spoil her dinner by having her view the gross green goo from the stomach that I was trying to get rid of, I quickly said “Oh, nothing. Why don’t you go play outside.” I failed. She saw it, and she’ll probably never eat lobster!

Finally, the meat extraction was done. I pulled out my mom’s 37-year-old Weight Watchers scale & bowl with its crooked red indicator arrow hoping I would have ¾ of a pound of lobster meat. 5 ounces! That’s it. That’s all. I thought about sucking the meat out of the small legs, but decided to hope for the best from lobster #2. The second lobster didn’t fare much better, but I went ahead with the 12 ounces total that I got from these two beasts.

Watch a pro clean a lobster
Here’s a great video showing how to get the meat out of the lobster, one of the hardest parts of this recipe.

I found this placemat handy that my mom got when they visited Prince Edward Island and attended a Lobsterfest.

How to Eat a Lobster placematThe cognac
After dealing with the lobster, you cook the aromatics (shallots, leek, carrot, tarragon, and parsley with some butter) along with the choice shells from the lobster for extra flavor. Next, you flambé the lot with 1 cup of Cognac!

FlambéAccording to the French, Cognac is made from eaux-de-vie, which literally means "waters of life". This strikes me as ironic after moments ago killing the lobster!

Cognac, FranceCognac is a brandy named after the town of Cognac in France. At the local “liquor board store”, I was able to find Hennessey, which is a prominent French winery that specializes in making cognac. After pouring this liquid gold into the pot, I lit it on fire. Everyone quickly took pictures. We watched. We waited. I had to hold my dad back from plopping the lid on top to put the fire out. Finally, after 5 minutes, the fire finally died out!

If that wasn’t enough alcohol, you then add a bottle of white wine. Finish it off with some tomato paste, salt, pepper, cream, and water. And let it bubble away for a while. After straining it, I had to add some water to bring it up to 6 cups. This seemed a shame, as I thought it would dilute the taste, but it didn’t.

The meatloaf
While the bisque bubbled and with the lobster meat extracted, I was ready to make the meatloaf…I mean “mousseline”. That has a much nicer ring to it, don’t you think?

A bit of a purée in the food processor, a dash of salt and pepper, a drizzle of foamy egg white, a touch of cream, and a sprinkle of chervil. {Chervil has been playing hard to get with me. I’ve looked in every grocery store I go to. Finally, in the small prairie city of Regina, Saskatchewan, I find a lonely bag of chervil on the shelf. “Doesn’t have much taste”, my sister says. She’s right! It looks pretty, though!}

I shaped the puréed meat into footballs, or "quenelles" as they're called, {easier to do with your fingers than the two-spoon method}, and poached them in some of the expensive broth {I would use water next time to save the broth for mouths rather than frying pans} with a buttered parchment paper circle as a lid. Ten minutes later, the lobster meatloaf was ready to garnish the bisque.

The thickener
Finally, to thicken the bisque, you use rice flour and butter to make a roux. {I don’t know why rice flour is used instead of all-purpose.} After slowly adding the broth to the roux, it simmers again to develop even more flavor.

To finish the bisque, you add a liaison of cream and eggs. This time, the cookbook says to bring it all to a boil AFTER adding the liaison. I did not want any curdling action since I'd spent all afternoon and so much money on this soup! I heated it to a suitable serving temperature, and bingo, presto….finally the bisque was done.

Like the Cream of Chicken Soup, this bisque wasn’t thick or viscous. It was creamy, though.

Recipe: Bisque de Homard (Lobster Bisque)

Mise en place for Bisque de Homard (Lobster Bisque)You can find the recipe for Bisque de Langoustins (Langoustine Bisque) {I substituted lobster for langoustines} in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with this week's recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Bisque de Homard (Lobster Bisque)Tasting Notes
“This is the most expensive soup I’ve ever made!” {me}
“This is the best soup I’ve ever tasted.” {sister and mom}
“What a lot of dishes!” {dad}

This soup had a rich, creamy flavor that was smooth and pleasing to the palate. The quenelles that floated on top of the soup provided a different texture and satisfying bite of lobster meat.

A dollar for every sip. Was it worth it?

“A bargain at thrice the price~!” says my mom. {But she’s my mom.} Next time, I’ll use shrimp.

Bisque de Homard (Lobster Bisque)Next Week (August 6)
• Consommé Madrilène (Chilled Consommé with Red Peppers and Tomatoes) pages 267-268

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $506.28 + $97.96 ($16.33 per serving!) = $604.24

Butter used so far: 6 pounds, 26 tablespoons

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Just a note that I'm away for a couple days at a cottage without internet (yikes), so I may not get around to everyone's blogs in the next few days. I promise to catch up when I get back.




Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Tuesdays with Dorie—Summer Fruit Galette

Rustic Summer Fruit Galette – Baked in a Paper Bag Summer Fruit Galette baked in paper bagsA galette is supposed to be rustic, and mine certainly looks that way! Baked in a brown bag, filled with a mixture of summer fruits including saskatoons, blueberries, strawberries, and raspberries, drizzled with pastry cream, and served with ice cream, this is a delicious and easy dessert.

Galettes are usually round, flat, free-form tarts with a thin, crispy crust that’s been folded over onto the fruit.

By its very nature, a galette is rustic and not meant to be perfect. It's a round of pie dough folded over the edges of a filling, and what makes it so charming are its pleats, bends and wrinkles.
Dorie Greenspan

The pastry for this galette is one we’ve made before for the blueberry pie. I just pile all the ingredients on the counter and pull it together with as much ice water as needed. I’ve made it several times, and it’s flaky and tender and holds up every time. A sprinkle of ground graham crackers before adding the filling helps soak up the juices that ooze out of the fruit during cooking.

Saskatoons

Blueberries and Saskatoons
Blueberries and Saskatoons

It’s saskatoon season here in Saskatchewan. At the farmers’ market, pails are brimming with big, delicious berries. Although saskatoons look like blueberries, they taste very different. Saskatoons have a thicker skin and thicker juice.

Saskatoons grow on deciduous shrubs and are common in the prairie provinces (Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta). They are classified as a pome, or apple, and not a berry and have a variety of names: service berry, may cherry, june berry, june bush, shad bush, shadblow, shad berry, shad blossom, shad wood, sugar pear, Indian pear, grape pear, lancewood, box wood.

I only know of one farm in the Ottawa region that grows saskatoons, Ovens Berry Farm, so I feel lucky to be in the heart of the harvest here in Saskatchewan. I knew I couldn’t get away without tossing some handfuls into this summer fruit galette.

Saskatchewan, the province, got its name from the Saskatchewan River, which the Cree called Kisiskatchewani Sipi, meaning “swift-flowing river” and Saskatoon, the city, got its name from the edible berry native to the area, which the Cree called mis-sask-guah-too-minute, meaning “wild berries”.

Prairie Cherry Spread

Prairie Cherry SpreadSince I’m visiting Saskatchewan, I found some local cherry spread (not called jam since the Canadian Food Inspection Agency thought it didn’t have enough sugar in it to be labeled a jam). It’s made by Prairie Cherry, a local organic orchard who is bringing fruits to the harsh climates of the prairies. They’ve crossed the Mongolian cherry (Prunus fruticosa) with the Sour cherry (Prunus cerasus) to create a wonderful fruit that is perfect as the jam-base for this galette.

Brown-baggin’ it
I saw a picture in the latest Cooking Light magazine of a galette sitting on a paper bag, and I thought it would be a neat idea to try baking Dorie’s galette in a paper bag. The shape of the bag helped the galette hold its form, although in a rustic way. I should have made the sides of the pastry rectangle higher to hold the juice in better.

I also tried making the galettes in a round coffee filter, but this paper was too flimsy to hold its shape so I plopped these inside a ramekin before baking.

Recipe: Summer Fruit Galette

Ingredients for Summer Fruit GaletteYou can find the recipe for Summer Fruit Galette in the book Baking: From My Home to Yours (affiliate link) by Dorie Greenspan. To see how the rest of the TWD group fared with this week's recipe, click here and then click on each blogger! Thanks to Michelle from Michelle in Colorado Springs who chose the recipe for this week.

Summer Fruit GaletteTasting Notes
I love the versatility of this dessert since any bowl of fruit in season will work. The drizzle of pastry cream in this recipe took this galette up a notch. Once again, the pastry was crispy and flaky and one I’ll use for pie-baking in the future. This bumbleberry galette filled with summer fruits is a perfect dessert.

Recipe for Next Week (August 5)
Black and White Banana Loaf on page 232 chosen by Ashlee of A Year in the Kitchen.

More to Explore:





Thursday, July 24, 2008

More This and That

Strawberries and KumquatsI can't believe how busy July has been, and I apologize for not being able to catch up with everyone's blogs and posts lately! Right now, I'm visiting family and friends in Saskatchewan and trying to squeeze in some blogging in-between.

It's so nice to get an award and even better when it's from bloggers I admire. Over the last week, this has happened twice! I feel so lucky and honored and flattered and astounded!

First, Holly from Phemomenon, gave me the Yummy Blog Award. Holly is a phenomenally creative chef in the kitchen! You have to check out her Peanut Butter Bars!! She is also extremely friendly and drops by so many blogs to provide feedback and encouragement. She's a true inspiration. Thanks so much for the award, Holly!

Now, it's my turn to share the award with a few of my favorite bloggers:
seven spoons
Taste Buddies
The Food Librarian

Next, Anne from Anne Strawberry gave me the Brillante Weblog award. Anne bakes and cooks and blogs all while taking care of a baby boy! She's amazing. Check out her Cupcake Pops! I definitely want to make those someday! Thanks, Anne, for the award. You're a sweetie!

Here are a few more of my favorite bloggers:
Daisy Lane Cakes
Crazy Delicious Food
Lemon Tartlet and the Dust Bunnies




Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Whisk Wednesdays—Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup)

Velouté Agnès Sorel – A Classic Cream of Chicken Soup Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup)White soup. White stock. White chicken. White button mushrooms. And a touch of pink from the ham. This is Velouté Agnès Sorel, a cream of chicken soup. Agnès Sorel was a mistress of French King Charles VII in the 1400s and this is one of several dishes named after her.

This could also be the soup mentioned in Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice:

“As for the ball, it is quite a settled thing;
and as soon as Nicholls has
made white soup enough
I shall send round my cards.”
1. Make Stock
The first step is to make stock. Since I’m currently not in my kitchen with access to all the chicken stockpiled in my freezer from earlier lessons, I made some fresh chicken stock to start this soup. {I’m visiting family and friends in Saskatchewan and having fun raiding all the cupboards for food props!} Although the first thing I was supposed to do was truss the chicken, it came that way from the grocery store so I just had to plop it into my sister’s large stock pot.

2. Prep Garnish
Next, I prepped the mushrooms and ham (since tongue, which is mentioned as an alternative, is not something I really want to eat!), slicing them into julienne. When the chicken was poached, I sliced off the breast meat and cut it into julienne too. Still practicing that julienne!

3. Make Liaison
The last step is to make the liaison, which is a mixture of cream and egg yolks that thickens the soup and adds a richness of flavor. This is the trickiest part of the recipe since the eggs can curdle. Slowly whisking some hot stock into the cream and egg mixture is key. After “tempering” the cream and egg mixture by bringing it up to a similar temperature as the stock, I combined the rest of the stock and liaison in the pot. Then, I stirred and stirred and stirred and watched it carefully on the heat to thicken it a bit more. I was careful not to let it boil, but it never thickened as much as I expected it to.

Although the name of this soup says that it is a Velouté, there is no flour in the ingredient list to make a blond roux. I imagine if I added 2 tablespoons of flour, it would be a thicker soup, but the soup doesn’t need to be thicker.

“it is the duty of every housekeeper to learn the art of soup making”
~ Fannie Farmer in The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book (1918) ~

Recipe: Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup)

Ingredients for Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup)You can find the recipe for Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with this week's recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup)Tasting Notes
This was a delicate, smooth soup that absorbed a smoky flavor from the ham. The chunks of chicken, mushrooms, and ham made it meal-worthy. I added more salt to boost the flavor, but it was a creamy, delicious soup that I’d love to make again. Coriander instead of parsley and coconut milk instead of cream and a few other Thai ingredients could quickly turn this into one of my favorite Thai soups: Tom Kha Gai!

Next Week (July 30)
• Bisque de Langoustins (Langoustine Bisque) pages 185-186

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Running total: $482.99 + $17.49 (stock) + $5.80 (soup) = $506.28

Butter used so far: 6 pounds, 14 tablespoons
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Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Tuesdays with Dorie—Cherry Rhubarb Cobbler

Cherry Rhubarb Cobbler – A Sweet and Tangy Dessert Cherry Rhubarb CobblerThis is the second cobbler I’ve made from Dorie Greenspan’s cookbook, Baking: From My Home to Yours, and the second one I’ve made in my life! I’ve made several crisps, but not cobblers. One of my favorite flavors is ginger, and this cobbler includes it in the filling and topping, which gives both a little zing.

Filling

Cherries and RhubarbI’m so glad I planted rhubarb in the garden last Fall since I’ve been able to use it in several recipes this year. I was able to pick up some red and golden cherries from the grocery store, which made the final dessert very pretty and pricey! {In the batch I bought, I found the red cherries were much sweeter than the golden ones.}

Topping
The topping contains whole wheat flour, which gives it more bite and texture. To make the topping, I dropped all the ingredients on the counter and my daughter and I had fun squeezing it together. It came together into a very wet ball. I checked the recipe several times to make sure I was supposed to add all the milk and found no hesitation or indication to add a tablespoon at a time, so we poured it in and tried to catch all the dribbles. Then we used an ice cream scoop to drop this wet batter on top of the filling.

Pots & Jars
During a shopping spree at an arts and crafts store earlier this spring, I bought a few mini terracotta pots thinking they would be fun to bake something in. I put a bit of the batter in the bottom to cover the hole, topped it with the cherry-rhubarb filling, and then scooped some batter on top. I also used the pie-in-a-jar idea that I tried earlier with sugar pie since it’s so easy and great for portion control!

Recipe: Cherry Rhubarb Cobbler

Ingredients for Cherry Rhubarb Cobbler ToppingIngredients for Cherry Rhubarb Cobbler FillingYou can find the recipe for Cherry Rhubarb Cobbler in the book Baking: From My Home to Yours (affiliate link) by Dorie Greenspan. To see how the rest of the TWD group fared with this week's recipe, click here and then click on each blogger! Thanks to Amanda from Like Sprinkles on a Cupcake who chose the recipe for this week.

Cherry Rhubarb CobblerTasting Notes
I loved the hint of ginger in both the filling and topping. It gives this simple cobbler a bit of sophistication. I would definitely use the filling again in either a crisp or a pie, but I preferred the “cobbled” top that we used for the Mixed Berry Cobbler. Whole wheat flour has a strong taste that doesn’t play well with others and needs a stronger tasting fruit medley. However, my pie-lovin’ daughter thought this dessert was delicious!

Recipe for Next Week (July 29)
Summer Fruit Galette on pages 366-367 chosen by Michelle from Michelle in Colorado Springs.

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Friday, July 18, 2008

This and That and Two Awards

Here are a couple of pictures from our camping trip at the most amazing beach in Ontario: Sandbanks Provincial Park on Lake Ontario. We had a great time building sand castles, jumping waves, getting grimy, eating s'mores, and even enjoying some leftover Le Cordon Bleu Creamed Leek and Potato Soup as an appetizer. But it's good to be home again and not have to worry about rain, critters, and poison ivy!

Ever since I joined the "food blogosphere" not so long ago, I've been amazed at the warmth, community, and friendliness of all the fellow foodies I've met.

A while ago, Clara from I Heart Food4Thought gave me “The Arte y Pico” award which translates to “Peak of Art”. I found this quote from the originator of this award:

"What is the meaning of the expression: Arte y Pico ironically, it translates into a wonderful phrase in Mexico, “lo maximo.” LOL! It will never find its counterpart in English, but if it HAD to, it would be something like, Wow. The Best Art. Over the top."
I'm so flattered and honored! Thanks, Clara. You're a sweetie. Check out Clara's blog. She has creative and amazing ideas, always rates the recipes she's tried with her husband, makes me smile everytime I read her posts, and even has another blog dedicated to cupcakes! Very ambitious!

Here are the rules for the award:
1. I have to pick blogs who deserve this award because the content of their blog is creative, interesting, and they inspire the blogging community.
2. Each recipient has to have their name and link back to their blog.
3. The recipient must display the award and link back to the blog that awarded them the award.
4. The recipient must also show the link back to Arte y Pico blog so everyone knows the origin of the award.

The hard part is picking since I read so many creative, interesting, and inspiring blogs. Here are my picks, in no particular order:

1. La casserole carree - Even though I can't read (or for that matter speak) French, I love looking at the beautiful food Vibi creates and shows on her food blog. Inspiring and stunning!

2. Technicolor Kitchen - English version - Patricia has amazing photos that make me want to head to the kitchen immediately. She's another ambitious blogger who maintains a Portugese version of her blog as well!

3. Almond Corner - Chriesi has amazing photos and a busy food blog that's always inspiring.

4. Bonbini - Thip shares her pastry art with us and truly inspires and wows me.


Recently, two foodie friends and fellow TWD-ers (Mary Ann from Meet Me in the Kitchen and Natashya from Living in the Kitchen with Puppies) gave me the Yum Yum Blog Award. {Update: Noor from Ya Salam Cooking created the Yum-Yum blog award to pass over to some of the fabulous blogs out there.} Mary Ann's blog has so many great food ideas and lots of kid-friendly ones that I'd love to try. Natashya is one busy foodie who participates in so many different food blogging events and isn't phased by it at all. In fact, her blog is continually changing as she shows us her latest delicious experiments in the kitchen. Thanks, guys!

I love being able to pass on these warm and fuzzy feelings to more food bloggers! I am to pass it to 5 deserving candidates with the intention that they post it on their site and confer the honour to other delicious food bloggers.

1. Redacted Recipes - Ann and Jack put together amazing food and photos on their blog. Plus, they've decided to join Whisk Wednesdays, so what's not to love about that!

2. The Sugar Bar - Diva takes amazing food photos and inspires me to try different food and recipes.

3. wrightfood - Matt's photos are crisp, clean, and delicious. He even has a cookbook ready for downloading.

4. Farida’s Azerbaijani Cookbook - Farida's writing about the food of her home country, Azerbaijan. How exotic is that!

5. Tony Tahhan - It's worth a visit to Tony's blog just to admire his pictures of the ingredients! Very yum yum.

Thanks for making my week extra special!



Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Whisk Wednesdays—Julienne Darblay (Creamed Leek and Potato Soup with Julienned Vegetables)

Creamed Leek and Potato Soup with Julienned Vegetables – A Silky Smooth Delight

Creamed Leek and Potato Soup with Julienned VegetablesLeeks and potatoes are a classic pairing in Vichyssoise (pronounced vee shee swahzz), the cold version of this soup. Julienne Darblay is served hot with an “elegant” garnish of julienned vegetables.

History
Vichyssoise was invented by a French chef named Louis Diat in New York City near the beginning of the 20th Century. He worked at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel on Madison Avenue at 46th Street and called this soup Creme Vichyssoise Glacée, or Chilled Cream Vichyssoise, after the town where he was born.

Base of Chicken Stock
The base of this soup is chicken stock, so I was able to use up more stock from my freezer that I made earlier in the year. Julia Child’s version of Vichyssoise uses water, but the extra flavor from a homemade chicken stock improves the soup’s flavor.

Leeks and Potatoes
Leeks and PotatoesIt’s important to clean leeks thoroughly since sand and dirt like to settle in-between the leaves. Here’s a video videoof Jacques Pépin cleaning a leek.

Although the recipe calls for dicing the potatoes, in the end the soup is puréed so the accuracy of each cut doesn’t have to be as precise. The reason to keep them a uniform size is for even cooking.

Thickening Agent
This soup, known as a potage, or thick soup, is thickened by puréeing the vegetables using a food mill, processor, or blender. I used my blender, but I made sure to take the feeder cap on the lid out, cover the hole with a dry towel, and hold the lid down when I turned the blender on. Otherwise, my kitchen would have been covered in soup!

The cream added at the end also serves to thicken the soup and add some more flavor.

Garnish of Julienned Vegetables
In this Julienne Darblay soup, the julienne refers to the garnish of vegetables cut into julienne and blanched. I used carrot, leek, and parsnip instead of turnip. (I actually made a mistake when I pulled the parsnip instead of the turnip from my refrigerator!) I like peppery flavor of the parsnip and this mild soup needed the extra flavor boost from the parsnip so it was a good mistake.

I ended up julienning more vegetables than I needed for the soup so next time I would only do enough for each bowl as a garnish. Also, julienning baby carrots isn’t such a good idea since it’s hard to get them uniform without wasting most of the carrot. Next time julienned carrots are called for, I’ll have to get the good ol’ fashioned kind of carrots that look like they’re actually grown in the ground!

Recipe: Julienne Darblay (Creamed Leek and Potato Soup with Julienned Vegetables)

Ingredients for Julienne Darblay (Creamed Leek and Potato Soup with Julienned Vegetables)You can find the recipe for Julienne Darblay (Creamed Leek and Potato Soup with Julienned Vegetables) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with this week's recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Julienne Darblay (Creamed Leek and Potato Soup with Julienned Vegetables)Tasting Notes
This was a silky-smooth light soup. The crunch from the tender julienned vegetables made it even more delicious. I had to add quite a bit of salt and pepper for extra flavor. Although the recipe calls for white pepper, I’ve never liked it. I find it has a sharp, harsh taste, so I always just use freshly ground black pepper even though classically white soups shouldn’t have the ugly black specks in them!

This soup tasted even better while we were camping! I served it along with brie baked on the grill with chopped apples, pecans, and craisins. Delicious!

Julienne Darblay (Creamed Leek and Potato Soup with Julienned Vegetables)Next Week (July 23)
• Velouté Agnès Sorel (Cream of Chicken Soup) pages 444-445
Note that I may be late with my post since I'm travelling next week.

Leek. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $475.26 + $7.73 = $482.99

Butter used so far: 6 pounds, 12 tablespoons

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