Showing posts with label dessert. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dessert. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Tuesdays with Dorie—Caramel-Topped Flan

Caramel-Topped Flan Recipe | Tuesdays with Dorie

Caramel-Topped Flan Recipe

Well, as of last week, I’ve joined the esteemed-blogging-baking ranks of Tuesdays with Dorie, which is a weekly baking and blogging community working through Dorie Greenspan’s cookbook called Baking: From My Home to Yours. I lucked out this week by getting to make one of my favorite desserts: crème caramel (or Caramel-Topped Flan as it’s called in this cookbook). I’m looking forward to playing hooky on a regular basis from the “cooking school” angle I’ve set up for myself.

Crème caramel: custard and caramel
As I learned earlier in this blog about crème caramel, this recipe covers two difficult things in baking: custard and caramel. But, I’m willing to practice both skills in order to get another crème caramel out of the deal!

Playing around with flavor
This time, I played around with the recipe and followed the suggestion of using coconut milk, and for my own spin added some ginger juice.

Also since I only have skim milk in the house, I used ½ cup of skim milk and ½ cup of whipping cream instead of the 1 cup whole milk recommended for this coconut flan. I also strained the custard before pouring it into the pan to ensure no stray bits of curdled egg found their way into the flan.

Playing around with caramel
I doubled the caramel ingredients. You can never have too much caramel to lick off the plate! And next time I’d even triple it.

Also, I thought the addition of lemon juice unusual. I did a bit of hunting, and found that acid in the juice inhibits crystallization of the sugar syrup. 

In more research, I found that to avoid a “pale” crème caramel, the caramel should be cooked to 340°F.

Playing around with presentation
I also tried baking it in one of my rarely-used, but fun Nordic Ware pans to see what would happen. One of my problems was finding a pan large enough to hold my sunflower pan so that I would have the bain-marie effect. My broiling pan worked, but I was worried I didn’t have enough water to come halfway up the sides, but I did (just barely).

The other problem was unmolding. I warmed the bottom of the sunflower pan on a burner on top of my stove and then used a thin knife to get around the edges of the pan, but next time I would try it without the knife since it did some damage to the sides.

Cool tips
I thought the trick of heating the pan before pouring in the caramel was brilliant. That gives you more time to pour the caramel before it hardens. I made sure after doing this that the caramel hardened before adding the custard, though.

Recipe: Tuesdays with Dorie—Caramel-Topped Flan

You can find the recipe at this blog or in the book Baking: From My Home to Yours (affiliate link) by Dorie Greenspan. To see how the rest of the TWD group fared with this week's recipe, click here and then click on each blogger!

If there isn’t enough caramel oozing out of your crème caramel, you can always make your own and serve it on the side.
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1 tablespoon butter
½ cup heavy cream

Combine the sugar and water. Bring to a boil and cook, without stirring, until the syrup turns a caramel color. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Add the butter. Stir. Add the cream and stir. Serve warm. (Reheat in microwave if desired).


Tasting Notes
Dorie Grenspan’s recipe contains more milk but less eggs, sugar, and vanilla than the original recipe I used, but it didn’t make an impact on the taste. Both flans tasted delicious. However, I didn’t find the coconut (or the ginger juice) flavor was noticeable. Either I need to add more ginger juice or try steeping the coconut milk with fresh ginger instead). Also, I would triple the caramel part of the recipe. You can never have too much caramel. I might also double the flan part of the recipe if I’m going to use a Nordic Ware bundt pan again since it turned out rather thin. However, I won’t have trouble finishing up this flan since it’s one of my favorite desserts.



Saturday, March 8, 2008

Pruneaux au vin blanc (Prunes cooked in white wine)

Poached Prunes in Wine: A Versatile Recipe for Dessert and Meat Accompaniment

This is another “boozy” fruit recipe, and it can be served as a dessert (as shown in the picture with the Poached Pears) or as an accompaniment with roast meats (such as pork or even rabbit). Now that’s versatility for the lowly prune!

I’m not a prunophobe. In fact, I love the oozy, squishy, squirt of sweetness in every bite. Unlike Weird Al Yankovic’s song, “Won't Eat Prunes Again”, I will eat prunes again. I often have them for a snack, and have been known to sneak them into chocolate cake for my kids!

The prune
Prunes, or dried plums as they’ve been marketed in the United States since 2000, are a type of plum grown with the intent to dry. The word prune comes from the old French pronne, which simply means plum. In French, prune means plum and pruneau means prune.

Plums are ripened on the tree, and when they’re ready, farmers use a mechanical shaker to grab the tree’s trunk and shake the fruit onto a catching frame. Then they’re taken to be dehydrated. Three pounds of fresh plums become one pound of prunes.


[Picture published with permission from Tracey Smith, Writer and Broadcaster with Downshifting & Sustainable Living]

In France, plums are grown in the Lot et Garonne department in the Aquitaine region in the South-West. In this region, you can follow the one-hundred-kilometre “Prune Route” and even visit a Gourmet Prune Museum. A good time to visit would be September, during the harvest. (I found this wonderful article about “The Way of the Prune” that talks fondly of such a trip to this region.)


map from Wikipedia

In the United States, most of the prunes are grown in California. There’s a funny story that in 1905 in the Santa Clara Valley, one farmer brought 500 monkeys from Panama to help with the harvesting of plums. Although the monkeys made light work of getting the plums off the trees, they also ate them up as fast as they could too.

Pruneaux à l'Armagnac
The pruneau d'Agen is the queen of all prunes. Agen is a town in this region that is known as the capital of the prune. The Ente plums from this region are the only variety that can be used to make prunes entitled to the "Agen" designation.

Prunes soaked in Armagnac, a brandy of this region, are an after-dinner delight often given as hostess gifts and traditionally served with foie gras. A tin of Pruneaux à l'Armagnac has been called the “most expensive prunes in the world” according to this link. I'd love to taste a prune from this tin someday. A company in France called Comtesse du Barry will ship their products internationally, including the “Stuffed Agen Prunes” (which are "stuffed with a creamed filling of prunes, apples, sugar, vanilla and Armagnac, and delicately glazed"). So, for 18.50 euros plus 45 euros for shipping , I could have an authentic 450 gram tin of Pruneaux à l'Armagnac for $96.86 Canadian in my mailbox 20 days later. That’s pretty cool.

Or, I could find a great recipe for Pruneaux à l'Armagnac and save the authentic tin for a holiday to France, which might be worth a trip in itself. 

The wine
For Pruneaux au vin blanc, the prunes are poached in wine. If you’ve read the blog entry about Poires au vin rouge, you’ll see that I poached the prunes in a wine from the Burgundy region of France. I used both a white and a red wine, but the color doesn’t change in the prunes as it did for the pears.

Recipe: Pruneaux au vin blanc (Prunes cooked in white wine)

See Poires au vin rouge.


Tasting Notes
I’ve always liked prunes, and poaching them in wine makes them even more tasty.

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Running total: No change: $219.13

Butter used so far: No change: 4 pounds, 19.5 tablespoons





Friday, March 7, 2008

Poires au vin rouge (Pears cooked in red wine)

Poached Pears in Red and White Wine: A Versatile and Elegant Dessert
Poached Pears in Red and White Wine
Poached pears, or “tipsy pears”, are a common dessert that’s simple, elegant, and can be expensive to make if you want to make them tipsy!

For some reason, I have never been fond of pears. I find them mealy, gritty, and dry. But, Poached Pears is on the list in the curriculum I'm working through, so, in the middle of winter after a 30-cm (1 foot) dump of snow, I went to the local grocery story to find the perfect Bosc (pronounced BAHSK) pears for poaching. They happened to be from Oregon or Washington (none were available from Provence, unfortunately). This is definitely not the 100-mile diet!



The Pear
Did you know that pears do not ripen successfully on the tree? Is this true or just the marketing of a big conglomerate trying to sell their pears worldwide? Supposedly, pears that ripen on the tree are gritty.

When you’re buying a pear, the mantra is: “Check the neck”. Since pears ripen from the inside out, if you check the flesh near the stem, it should be soft to the touch. Ralph Waldo Emerson once said, "There are only 10 minutes in the life of a pear when it is perfect to eat.” Sadly, I must have missed these 10 minutes in my lifetime.

If the pears are not ripe yet, store them in a warm place (not the refrigerator) such as a fruit bowl or paper bag until ripe. Store ripe pears in the coldest part of the refrigerator.

Bosc pears, which have a beautiful russet skin, are firm and work best for poaching. Anjou pears also work well for poaching, and are named after the Angers region in central France. There’s a gorgeous picture of several types of pears found at this link.


The Wine
With the pears selected, I next had to find the right wine to use for the poaching liquid. I've read that the wine you use should be good enough to drink. That’s not usually a problem for me! There are many different wines you can use, but the recipe in Le Cordon Bleu at Home suggested using a Burgundy wine.

map from Wikipedia

For this dish, I wanted to try poaching some of the pears in a red wine and some in a white wine so I bought one of each, but both were from the Burgundy region of France.

Poaching
Poaching is a gentle cooking method where the food simmers over low heat. As the French chefs like to say, “Goutez, goutez, goutez.” (Taste, taste, taste.) If the poaching liquid is delicious, your poached pears will be too.

Poaching time can take anywhere from a few minutes to an hour depending on the ripeness of the fruit and the type of pear you choose. The pears I bought weren’t as ripe as they should have been, so the poaching time took around 45 minutes.

Watch a Pro
Here is a link to a video showing how to make Poached Pears.

Recipe: Poires au vin rouge (Pears cooked in red wine)


24 prunes, pitted
6 small peaches, peeled
6 small pears, peeled
½ lemon
½ bottle dry red Burgundy wine
½ bottle dry white Burgundy wine
2 cups (500 mL) water, divided
6 ounces (125 mL) red currant jelly
6 ounces (125 mL) ice wine jelly (or apple jelly)
12 peppercorns, divided
1 stick cinnamon, broken in 2
1 teaspoon vanilla extract, divided
Mint leaves, for garnish (optional)

Recipe for Poires au vin rouge can be found in Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link)

Tasting Notes
This is a simple, fresh way of serving pears. The pears taste buttery, spicy, and comforting. It’s such a versatile dish, and is a nice, light way to end a heavy meal. Although pears have never been my favorite fruit, poached pears could become a dessert to impress dinner guests.

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Running total: $193.92 + $25.21 = $219.13

(Who would have thought that this dessert would cost so much. I guess it's due to the wine involved and maybe the fact that I don't own an orchard! )

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 19.5 tablespoons

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