Showing posts with label custard. Show all posts
Showing posts with label custard. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Tuesdays with Dorie—Caramel-Topped Flan

Caramel-Topped Flan Recipe | Tuesdays with Dorie

Caramel-Topped Flan Recipe

Well, as of last week, I’ve joined the esteemed-blogging-baking ranks of Tuesdays with Dorie, which is a weekly baking and blogging community working through Dorie Greenspan’s cookbook called Baking: From My Home to Yours. I lucked out this week by getting to make one of my favorite desserts: crème caramel (or Caramel-Topped Flan as it’s called in this cookbook). I’m looking forward to playing hooky on a regular basis from the “cooking school” angle I’ve set up for myself.

Crème caramel: custard and caramel
As I learned earlier in this blog about crème caramel, this recipe covers two difficult things in baking: custard and caramel. But, I’m willing to practice both skills in order to get another crème caramel out of the deal!

Playing around with flavor
This time, I played around with the recipe and followed the suggestion of using coconut milk, and for my own spin added some ginger juice.

Also since I only have skim milk in the house, I used ½ cup of skim milk and ½ cup of whipping cream instead of the 1 cup whole milk recommended for this coconut flan. I also strained the custard before pouring it into the pan to ensure no stray bits of curdled egg found their way into the flan.

Playing around with caramel
I doubled the caramel ingredients. You can never have too much caramel to lick off the plate! And next time I’d even triple it.

Also, I thought the addition of lemon juice unusual. I did a bit of hunting, and found that acid in the juice inhibits crystallization of the sugar syrup. 

In more research, I found that to avoid a “pale” crème caramel, the caramel should be cooked to 340°F.

Playing around with presentation
I also tried baking it in one of my rarely-used, but fun Nordic Ware pans to see what would happen. One of my problems was finding a pan large enough to hold my sunflower pan so that I would have the bain-marie effect. My broiling pan worked, but I was worried I didn’t have enough water to come halfway up the sides, but I did (just barely).

The other problem was unmolding. I warmed the bottom of the sunflower pan on a burner on top of my stove and then used a thin knife to get around the edges of the pan, but next time I would try it without the knife since it did some damage to the sides.

Cool tips
I thought the trick of heating the pan before pouring in the caramel was brilliant. That gives you more time to pour the caramel before it hardens. I made sure after doing this that the caramel hardened before adding the custard, though.

Recipe: Tuesdays with Dorie—Caramel-Topped Flan

You can find the recipe at this blog or in the book Baking: From My Home to Yours (affiliate link) by Dorie Greenspan. To see how the rest of the TWD group fared with this week's recipe, click here and then click on each blogger!

If there isn’t enough caramel oozing out of your crème caramel, you can always make your own and serve it on the side.
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1 tablespoon butter
½ cup heavy cream

Combine the sugar and water. Bring to a boil and cook, without stirring, until the syrup turns a caramel color. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Add the butter. Stir. Add the cream and stir. Serve warm. (Reheat in microwave if desired).


Tasting Notes
Dorie Grenspan’s recipe contains more milk but less eggs, sugar, and vanilla than the original recipe I used, but it didn’t make an impact on the taste. Both flans tasted delicious. However, I didn’t find the coconut (or the ginger juice) flavor was noticeable. Either I need to add more ginger juice or try steeping the coconut milk with fresh ginger instead). Also, I would triple the caramel part of the recipe. You can never have too much caramel. I might also double the flan part of the recipe if I’m going to use a Nordic Ware bundt pan again since it turned out rather thin. However, I won’t have trouble finishing up this flan since it’s one of my favorite desserts.



Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Crème renversée au caramel (Reversed caramel cream)

Crème Renversée au Caramel: The Perfect Caramel Custard Dessert
Crème renversée au caramel is known more commonly as Crème Caramel, which is a custard and caramel dessert. Renversée means inverted or upside down and refers to the fact that this dessert is unmolded for service and the caramel from the bottom of the ramekin becomes the sauce for the custard. You can also make a Crème renversée without the caramel, but why miss out on this deep flavor that complements the custard so well?

Crème Caramel used to be THE dessert I would look for when I was out for dinner. If it wasn’t on the menu, I was disappointed. That was, until I learned how easy it is to make. From four simple ingredients, comes this elegant, delicious and heavenly dessert. Also, after doing the math I found out that it costs me 32 cents for each ramekin (I made 7) to make this dessert and the restaurants charge between $7-9! That’s motivation to learn how to make it!

Crème Caramel, according to Wikipedia, may originate in the Southern regions of France, but it’s also a popular dessert in many other countries such as Japan, Argentina, Uruguay, and the Philippines to name a few. It’s often known as a flan. However, according to Cook's Illustrated, a flan contains more eggs and yolks, and either cream, evaporated milk, or condensed milk.

The Custard
The custard part of this dessert is part of les entrements, in French, meaning desserts made of milk, eggs, and sugar that are served cold. Milk (I used whole milk, but you can mix milk with light cream) and whole eggs are thickened with heat in the oven. Thickening occurs at a temperature between 180°-190°F. The whites of the eggs help set the custard, and the yolks make it creamy. A quiche is also a custard, but once you add sugar and vanilla, the custard becomes a sweet and yummy dessert.

When you’re blending the custard, you shouldn’t whisk in too much air or else there will be a lot of foam on top of the custard mixture. Let the custard mixture sit for a bit for the foam to subside. You can also skim off the foam.

All sorts of flavorings can be added to the custard such as chai tea, cinnamon, coconut, ginger, lavender, lemon, maple syrup, mocha, orange, or strawberry, but traditionally just vanilla is added. If you add a flavoring that is acidic (such as orange juice), the custard with curdle.

Custards, if overcooked, taste “eggy”. It should taste rich and creamy, but not too heavy. Often, Crème Caramel is made in individual ramekins, but you can make a large version in a pie pan or soufflé dish.

The Caramel
The caramel part of this dessert can be tricky. Even though caramel contains two ingredients: water and sugar (and sometimes just sugar is used), too many things can go wrong. It has been called the most dangerous thing to make in the kitchen, according to food blogger at Eggbeater (and quickly becoming one of my favorite food blogs) writing at this link.

When making caramel, I have always put the sugar and water in the pan and left it alone to do its thing. I don’t cover the pan or brush down the sides or stir the sugar and water mixture, and I’ve never had problems. Once it starts to turn color, though, it requires babysitting since it can go from a nice light golden color to a burnt state faster than bad news. When you start to see some color, start swirling the pan to distribute the color. Also know the color of your pan is dark, making the caramel look darker than it is. Be bold, and hang on or test some on a white ramekin to see the color. I’ve seen too many Crème Caramel desserts that look pale!

If you carefully add water (about 4-5 tablespoons) at the end of the caramelization, the cooking will stop and the caramel won’t harden as quickly making it easier to pour into the ramekins. You must watch though, because the water will sputter and you could easily burn yourself. David Lebovitz, another great food blogger, suggests using a mesh strainer over the pan while pouring in the water.

Let the caramel cool and harden before adding the custard. Again, I learned this the hard way as I poured in the custard and saw the caramel start to mix with the custard. Oh well, another one for the “chef”.

Baking
Crème Caramel is baked in a water bath (bain marie) to prevent the outside of the custard from cooking or drying out before the interior is cooked. The water bath maintains a low, even, moist heat. The water in the water bath must not boil or the custard will be grainy. But it must not be too cool or the custard will take too long to cook. It should have small bubbles.

When you put the ramekins in a pan that will hold a water bath, make sure the pan you use doesn’t have holes! I learned this the hard way by using an aluminum foil pan that I’d used for a different dish that had a small hole in one corner. Soon I had a puddle of water gathering in the oven.

I also put a dish cloth in the bottom of the pan so that the ramekins don’t slip around. Also, if you’re baking Crème Caramel in individual ramekins, you can shorten the baking time.

After baking, it should be a little jiggly in the center, since it will continue to cook after it is out of the oven. When unmolding, you can heat the ramekins on a burner on the stove (just for a bit) to loosen the caramel to make sure it won’t stick. Use a knife to loosen the edges before unmolding too.

Watch a pro
Here are a couple of links to videos showing how to make Crème Caramel and how to caramelize sugar:
Link to video on making Crème Caramel
Link to video on caramelizing sugar

Recipe: Crème renversée au caramel (Reversed caramel cream)

Link to recipe for (and interesting story about) Julia Child’s Crème Renversée au Caramel


Tasting Notes:

This is still one of my favorite desserts. The only problem with knowing how to make it at home is that there's a temptation to make it too often! So much for the diet. Definitely another keeper in the favorite file.

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Running total: $191.66 + $2.26 = $193.92

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 19.5 tablespoons

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