Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Daring Bakers—French Yule Log

With Christmas and the flu hitting our house, I wasn't able to make the Tuesdays with Dorie Tall and Creamy Cheesecake on pages 235-237 chosen by Anne of AnneStrawberry. To see how the rest of the TWD group fared with this week's recipe, click here and then click on each blogger!

French Yule LogThis month's challenge is brought to us by the adventurous Hilda from Saffron and Blueberry and Marion from Il en Faut Peu Pour Etre Heureux. They have chosen a French Yule Log by Flore from Florilege Gourmand.

As if Christmas isn't busy enough as it is, we have a Daring Baker challenge to deeply challenge all of us. 6 layers. Molds. Different timings for each element. Assembly instructions for making the log upside down, right side up, or with two pieces of Dacquoise. 20 pages of instructions. It makes putting together the kids' Barbie Diamond Castle Dream House a piece of cake!

To see the different versions of Yule Logs or Bûche de Noël cropping up all over the foodblogosphere, check out the Daring Bakers Blogroll. Thanks to Hilda from Saffron and Blueberry and Marion from Il en Faut Peu Pour Etre Heureux who hosted this month. Also thanks to Flore from Florilège Gourmand.

Bûche de Noël means "Christmas log" and is meant to resemble a log for the fire. A popular story about the Yule Log is that Napoleon ordered everyone not to stop using their chimneys for fear that the draft was causing too many people to be sick. So instead of burning a real log in the hearth, a cake was born to draw families together. Traditionally, the cake is a moist, sponge cake that is rolled with pastry cream or buttercream. Usually, one end of the rolled cake is cut off and placed on top resembling a branch. However, this Daring Baker challenge had us make a more contemporary layered version that's molded and stored in the freezer.

Layers of Flavor
If I've learned anything this past year about French cuisine, it's layering. The layering is so important to draw out all the flavors you can in a dish. And it's so true in this dessert. My Bûche de Noël contains the following layers:

1) Almond Dacquoise
2) Dark Chocolate Mousse
3) Vanilla Cinnamon Crème Brûlée
4) Praline Feuillete Crisp
5) Dark Chocolate Ganache
6) Milk Chocolate Mousse
7) Almond Dacquoise
8) Dark Chocolate Icing

The foundation of the log is the Dacquoise, which is a dainty cake layer that's basically a meringue with nuts. On top of the Dacquoise is a delicate mousse followed by a decadent crème brûlée. To add some crunch, a crisp praline layer is next followed by ganache, another layer of mousse and finally another layer of Dacquoise. A chocolate icing wraps this whole package up. I used a ring mold (an empty can of corn) to stack my layers instead of using a mold.

You probably will want to make the elements in this order because of what you can get done while some elements are baking and given some of the prep times. This is the order I made mine in:

a) Mousse
b) Creme brûlée
c) Praline and Praline Feuillete (Crisp)
d) Dacquoise
e) Ganache
f) Icing

Ingredients for Dark Chocolate Mousse & Vanilla Cinnamon Crème Brûlée
Dark Chocolate Mousse & Vanilla Cinnamon Crème Brûlée

Ingredients for Praline Paste & Praline Feuillete Crisp
Praline Paste & Praline Feuillete Crisp

Ingredients for Almond Dacquoise & Dark Chocolate Ganache
Almond Dacquoise & Dark Chocolate Ganache

Ingredients for Dark Chocolate Icing
Dark Chocolate Icing

Element #1 Dacquoise Biscuit (Almond Cake)

Preparation time: 10 mn + 15 mn for baking
Equipment: 2 mixing bowls, hand or stand mixer with whisk attachment, spatula, baking pan such as a 10”x15” jelly-roll pan, parchment paper
Note: You can use the Dacquoise for the bottom of your Yule Log only, or as bottom and top layers, or if using a Yule log mold (half-pipe) to line your entire mold with the biscuit. Take care to spread the Dacquoise accordingly. Try to bake the Dacquoise the same day you assemble the log to keep it as moist as possible.

2.8 oz (3/4cup + 1Tbsp / 80g) almond meal
1.75 oz (1/2 cup / 50g) confectioner’s sugar
2Tbsp (15g) all-purpose flour
3.5oz (100g / ~100ml) about 3 medium egg whites
1.75 oz (4 Tbsp / 50g) granulated sugar

1. Finely mix the almond meal and the caster sugar. (If you have a mixer, you can use it by pulsing the ingredients together for no longer than 30 seconds).
2. Sift the flour into the mix.
3. Beat the eggs whites, gradually adding the granulated sugar until stiff.
4. Pour the almond meal mixture into the egg whites and blend delicately with a spatula.
5. Grease a piece of parchment paper and line your baking pan with it.
6. Spread the batter on a piece of parchment paper to an area slightly larger than your desired shape (circle, long strip etc...) and to a height of 1/3 inches (8mm).
7. Bake at 350°F (180°C) for approximately 15 minutes (depends on your oven), until golden.
8. Let cool and cut to the desired shape.

Element #2 Dark Chocolate Mousse

Preparation time: 20mn
Equipment: stand or hand mixer with whisk attachment, thermometer, double boiler or equivalent, spatula
Note: You will see that a Pate a Bombe is mentioned in this recipe. A Pate a Bombe is a term used for egg yolks beaten with a sugar syrup, then aerated. It is the base used for many mousse and buttercream recipes. It makes mousses and buttercreams more stable, particularly if they are to be frozen, so that they do not melt as quickly or collapse under the weight of heavier items such as the crème brulee insert.

2.5 sheets gelatin or 5g / 1+1/4 tsp powdered gelatin
1.5 oz (3 Tbsp / 40g) granulated sugar
1 ½ tsp (10g) glucose or thick corn syrup
0.5 oz (15g) water
50g egg yolks (about 3 medium)
6.2 oz (175g) dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
1.5 cups (350g) heavy cream (35% fat content)

1. Soften the gelatin in cold water. (If using powdered gelatin, follow the directions on the package.)
2. Make a Pate a Bombe: Beat the egg yolks until very light in colour (approximately 5 minutes until almost white).
2a. Cook the sugar, glucose syrup and water on medium heat for approximately 3 minutes (if you have a candy thermometer, the mixture should reach 244°F (118°C). If you do not have a candy thermometer, test the sugar temperature by dipping the tip of a knife into the syrup then into a bowl of ice water, if it forms a soft ball in the water then you have reached the correct temperature.
2b. Add the sugar syrup to the beaten yolks carefully by pouring it into the mixture in a thin stream while continuing to beat the yolks. You can do this by hand but it’s easier to do this with an electric mixer.
2c. Continue beating until cool (approximately 5 minutes). The batter should become thick and foamy.
3. In a double boiler (or one small saucepan in a larger one), heat 2 tablespoons (30g) of cream to boiling. Add the chopped chocolate and stir until melted and smooth.
4. Whip the rest of the cream until stiff.
5. Pour the melted chocolate over the softened gelatin, mixing well. Let the gelatin and chocolate cool slightly and then stir in ½ cup (100g) of WHIPPED cream to temper. Add the Pate a Bombe.
6. Add in the rest of the whipped cream (220g) mixing gently with a spatula.

Element #3 Dark Chocolate Ganache Insert

Preparation time: 10mn
Equipment: pan, whisk. If you have a plunging mixer it comes in handy.
Note: Because the ganache hardens as it cools, you should make it right before you intend to use it to facilitate piping it onto the log during assembly. Please be careful when caramelizing the sugar and then adding the cream. It may splatter and boil.

1.75 oz (4 Tbsp / 50g) granulated sugar
4.5oz (2/3 cup – 1 Tbsp/ 135g) heavy cream (35% fat content)
5 oz (135g) dark chocolate, finely chopped
3Tbsp + 1/2tsp (45g) unsalted butter softened

1. Make a caramel: Using the dry method, melt the sugar by spreading it in an even layer in a small saucepan with high sides. Heat over medium-high heat, watching it carefully as the sugar begins to melt. Never stir the mixture. As the sugar starts to melt, swirl the pan occasionally to allow the sugar to melt evenly. Cook to dark amber color (for most of you that means darker than last month’s challenge).
2. While the sugar is melting, heat the cream until boiling. Pour cream into the caramel and stir thoroughly. Be very careful as it may splatter and boil.
3. Pour the hot caramel-milk mixture over the dark chocolate. Wait 30 seconds and stir until smooth.
4. Add the softened butter and whip hard and fast (if you have a plunging mixer use it). The chocolate should be smooth and shiny.

Element #4 Praline Feuillete (Crisp) Insert

Preparation time: 10 mn (+ optional 15mn if you make lace crepes)
Equipment: Small saucepan, baking sheet (if you make lace crepes).
Double boiler (or one small saucepan in another), wax paper, rolling pin (or use an empty bottle of olive oil).
Note: Feuillete means layered (as in with leaves) so a Praline Feuillete is a Praline version of a delicate crisp. There are non-praline variations below. The crunch in this crisp comes from an ingredient which is called gavottes in French. Gavottes are lace-thin crepes. To our knowledge they are not available outside of France, so you have the option of making your own using the recipe below or you can simply substitute rice krispies or corn flakes or Special K for them. If you do substitute cereal you should use half of the stated quantity, so 1 oz of cereal.
If you want to make your own praline, please refer back to the Daring Baker Challenge Recipe from July 2008 over at Mele Cotte.

To make 2.1oz / 60g of gavottes (lace crepes - recipe by Ferich Mounia):
1/3 cup (80ml) whole milk
2/3 Tbsp (8g) unsalted butter
1/3 cup – 2tsp (35g) all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp / 0.5 oz (15g) beaten egg
1 tsp (3.5g) granulated sugar
½ tsp vegetable oil
1. Heat the milk and butter together until butter is completely melted. Remove from the heat.
2. Sift flour into milk-butter mixture while beating, add egg and granulated sugar. Make sure there are no lumps.
3. Grease a baking sheet and spread batter thinly over it.
4. Bake at 430°F (220°C) for a few minutes until the crepe is golden and crispy. Let cool.

Ingredients for the Praline Feuillete:
3.5 oz (100g) milk chocolate
1 2/3 Tbsp (25g) butter
2 Tbsp (1 oz / 30g) praline
2.1oz (60g) lace crepes(gavottes) or rice krispies or corn flakes or Special K

1. Melt the chocolate and butter in a double boiler.
2. Add the praline and the coarsely crushed lace crepes. Mix quickly to thoroughly coat with the chocolate.
3. Spread between two sheets of wax paper to a size slightly larger than your desired shape. Refrigerate until hard.

Element #5 Vanilla Crème Brulée Insert

Preparation time: 15mn + 1h infusing + 1h baking
Equipment: Small saucepan, mixing bowl, baking mold, wax paper
Note: The vanilla crème brulée can be flavored differently by simply replacing the vanilla with something else e.g. cardamom, lavender, etc...

1/2 cup (115g) heavy cream (35% fat content)
½ cup (115g) whole milk
4 medium-sized (72g) egg yolks
0.75 oz (2 Tbsp / 25g) granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean

1. Heat the milk, cream, and scraped vanilla bean to just boiling. Remove from the stove and let the vanilla infuse for about 1 hour.
2. Whisk together the sugar and egg yolks (but do not beat until white).
3. Pour the vanilla-infused milk over the sugar/yolk mixture. Mix well.
4. Wipe with a very wet cloth and then cover your baking mold (whatever shape is going to fit on the inside of your Yule log/cake) with parchment paper. Pour the cream into the mold and bake at 210°F (100°C) for about 1 hour or until firm on the edges and slightly wobbly in the center.
Tartelette says: You can bake it without a water bath since it is going to go inside the log (the aesthetics of it won't matter as much since it will be covered with other things)....BUT I would recommend a water bath for the following reasons:
- you will get a much nicer mouth feel when it is done
- you will be able to control its baking point and desired consistency much better
- it bakes for such a long time that I fear it will get overdone without a water bath
Now...since it is baked in a pan and it is sometimes difficult to find another large pan to set it in for a water bath, even a small amount of water in your water bath will help the heat be distributed evenly in the baking process. Even as little as 1 inch will help.
5. Let cool and put in the freezer for at least 1 hour to firm up and facilitate the final assembly.

Element #6 Dark Chocolate Icing

Preparation time: 25 minutes (10mn if you don’t count softening the gelatin)
Equipment: Small bowl, small saucepan
Note: Because the icing gelifies quickly, you should make it at the last minute.

4g / ½ Tbsp powdered gelatin or 2 sheets gelatin
¼ cup (60g) heavy cream (35 % fat content)
2.1 oz (5 Tbsp / 60g) granulated sugar
¼ cup (50g) water
1/3 cup (30g) unsweetened cocoa powder

1. Soften the gelatin in cold water for 15 minutes.
2. Boil the rest of the ingredients and cook an additional 3 minutes after boiling.
3. Add gelatin to the chocolate mixture. Mix well.
4. Let cool while checking the texture regularly. As soon as the mixture is smooth and coats a spoon well (it is starting to gelify), use immediately.

How To Assemble your French Yule Log

You will want to tap your mold gently on the countertop after each time you pipe mousse in to get rid of any air bubbles.

1) Line your mold or pan, whatever its shape, with rhodoid (clear hard plastic, I usually use transparencies cut to the desired shape, it’s easier to find than cellulose acetate which is what rhodoid translates to in English) OR saran wrap or cling film. Rhodoid will give you a smoother shape but you may have a hard time using it depending on the kind of mold you’re using.

You have two choices for Step 2, you can either have Dacquoise on the top and bottom of your log as in version A or you can have Dacquoise simply on the bottom of your log as in version B:

2A) Cut the Dacquoise into a shape fitting your mold and set it in there. If you are using an actual Yule mold which is in the shape of a half-pipe, you want the Dacquoise to cover the entire half-pipe portion of the mold.
3A) Pipe one third of the Mousse component on the Dacquoise.
4A) Take the Creme Brulee Insert out of the freezer at the last minute and set on top of the mousse. Press down gently to slightly ensconce it in the mousse.
5A) Pipe second third of the Mousse component around and on top of the Creme Brulee Insert.
6A) Cut the Praline/Crisp Insert to a size slightly smaller than your mold so that it can be surrounded by mousse. Lay it on top of the mousse you just piped into the mold.
7A) Pipe the last third of the Mousse component on top of the Praline Insert.
8A) Freeze for a few hours to set. Take out of the freezer.
9A) Pipe the Ganache Insert onto the frozen mousse leaving a slight edge so that ganache doesn’t seep out when you set the Dacquoise on top.
10A) Close with the last strip of Dacquoise.
Freeze until the next day.


2B) Pipe one third of the Mousse component into the mold.
3B) Take the Creme Brulee Insert out of the freezer at the last minute and set on top of the mousse. Press down gently to slightly ensconce it in the mousse.
4B) Pipe second third of the Mousse component around and on top of the Creme Brulee Insert.
5B) Cut the Praline/Crisp Insert to a size slightly smaller than your mold so that it can be surrounded by mousse. Lay it on top of the mousse you just piped into the mold.
6B) Pipe the last third of the Mousse component on top of the Praline Insert.
7B) Freeze for a few hours to set. Take out of the freezer.
8B) Pipe the Ganache Insert onto the frozen mousse leaving a slight edge so that ganache doesn’t seep out when you set the Dacquoise on top.
9B) Close with the Dacquoise.
Freeze until the next day.

If you are doing the assembly UPSIDE DOWN with TWO pieces of Dacquoise the order is:
1) Dacquoise
2) Mousse
3) Creme Brulee Insert
4) Mousse
5) Praline/Crisp Insert
6) Mousse
7) Ganache Insert
8) Dacquoise

If you are doing the assembly UPSIDE DOWN with ONE piece of Dacquoise on the BOTTOM ONLY the order is:
1) Mousse
2) Creme Brulee Insert
3) Mousse
4) Praline/Crisp Insert
5) Mousse
6) Ganache Insert
7) Dacquoise

Unmold the log and set on a wire rack over a shallow pan.
Cover the log with the icing.
Let set. Return to the freezer.
You may decorate your cake however you wish. The decorations can be set in the icing after it sets but before you return the cake to the freezer or you may attach them on top using extra ganache or leftover mousse, etc...
Transfer to the refrigerator no longer than ½ hour before serving as it may start to melt quickly depending on the elements you chose.

French Yule LogTasting Notes
I actually haven't had a chance to taste this yet, but we're planning to eat it for dessert at New Year's. I will keep you posted!

"It's not something that I sell. It’s a pain for me to make. It’s something special.
I go out of my way to make that." — Jacques Torres
He's right about that — it's definitely a pain to make. But it should be worth it! Happy New Year everyone!

• Article from Serious Eats about Jacques Torres Bûche de Noël
• Post with history about the Yule Log
• Article about Yule Logs in Paris

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    kimberly salem said...

    *SO* beautiful and impressive! I am really admiring all of the hard work the DB's have put in this month. Also kinda glad I haven't joined yet ;) Gorgeous work and I hope the flu leaves soon!!

    Katrina said...

    No TWD, but you've made up for it with the DB Yule Log. Looks delicious! Sure does sound like a lot of work, but yummy!
    You'll have to try the cheesecake sometime, it's a good one!
    Happy New Year!

    Cynthia's Blog said...

    I loved a the Jacques Torres quote. Amen to that.

    I also mentioned him in my post too., Yours looks really, really good.

    The Food Librarian said...

    Crazy, Crazy, Crazy pretty!!! Looks lovely!!!

    Anonymous said...

    My my. How pretty. I hope you enjoy it along with your new years eve!

    Susan @ SGCC said...

    I definitely feel your pain! I'm still traumatized from making mine. Your log looks great! I know you'll really enjoy it! It tastes divine!

    Anonymous said...

    Love the way you did this -- unconventional, and lovely. I appreciate the time you took to place the components in order. If I ever decide to make this challenge up, it will be helpful to benefit from your planning. Congrats to you for taking it on with so much going on. Happy New Year to you!

    sefa firdaus said...

    you did all those steps? cool!

    that's why I cant be a daring baker :)

    btw, happy new year Shari!

    Megan said...

    Who cares about a cheesecake when you could have all of that glorious-ness! Surely that could cure the flu, couldn't it? :)

    Happy New Year!

    Jacque said...

    Oh, it's so cute and fantastic! I admire each and every person that got this challenge completed in the busiest of months. GReat job!

    I just wanted to check something... did you see where you're supposed to include some specfic lines in your post in order to be given credit for participating? If so, just ignore me, I'm a detail freak, lol. The lines are:

    This month's challenge is brought to us by the adventurous Hilda from Saffron and Blueberry and Marion from Il en Faut Peu Pour Etre Heureux.
    They have chosen a French Yule Log by Flore from Florilege Gourmand

    Engineer Baker said...

    Layers are important. Ogres have layers, ya know :P Beautiful job, and kudos for squeezing it in around all the holiday festivities!

    Anonymous said...

    BEAUTIFUL job, your presentation is lovely - great photos! And vanilla-cinnamon sounds delish :)

    vibi said...

    Wow! you can actually manage to make that with flu? ...you are my new found goddess of th e kitchen! But then again, you already know that!

    I love the rustic, free form one... looks a lot easier to make that way, yet just as spectacular... if not even more!

    A happy new year to you Shari, and many reasons to smile and laugh throughout 2009!

    Di said...

    That looks lovely. I hope you're feeling better. Happy New Year!

    Olga said...

    oh how absolutely gorgeous! I hope you like how the yule log tastes: after all that work...it will make it worth it.

    Great photographs too.

    Bex said...

    so cute. Great presentation.

    Anonymous said...

    This is fantabulous!! Definitely too pretty to eat, but impossible not to! How lucky your New Year's guests are to feast on this! The perfect beginning to a wonderful new year.
    Can't help wondering how many person hours this took to make!!

    TeaLady said...

    Layers of yummy goodness. I just didn't have it in me to try this one. But glad you did. Looks fantastic.

    Anonymous said...

    Ooh very nice... I like how you can see all the layers that way :)

    Meeta K. Wolff said...

    shari - this looks exquisite. it looks rich and perfect. taste wise - well let me tell you we enjoyed it to the last bite!

    CookiePie said...

    Looks gorgeous, and I bet it will taste amazing! Happy new year!

    Anonymous said...

    Gorgeous! Mine will be a New Year's dessert as well.

    Jenny said...

    When I was lost in the mountain of pages that was this recipe, I should have emailed you and cried out for help! (45 minutes and a sharp pencil eventually figured it out for me)
    That is so beautiful, and I love the little one with the icing dripping down the sides.
    Have a wonderful new years!

    Lori said...

    Its a little white Christmas tree with jewel ornaments! Cute.

    It was a lot of work, wasnt it? I am patting myself on the back just for doing it. I think anybody who did the challenge this month gets a pat on the back! THsoe that didnt I totally can see why!

    Anonymous said...

    Lovely layers, Shari! Hope you at least enjoy eating it, despite the hassle of making this challenge. Happy new year!

    Gretchen Noelle said...

    Looks beautiful as always. I hope you enjoy it for dessert tonight! Happy New Year!

    Y said...

    Ooh that last photo is so eye catching! :) Happy New Year! And hope you enjoyed the log.

    Jaime said...

    very beautiful, love how you decorated the top too! happy new year!

    natalia said...

    Ciao ! I can see the db are getting closer to each other after sharing all this "hard" work ! I loved the log !! Happy new year !! Baci

    Anonymous said...

    Such a beautiful job!

    Happy 2009!

    Cynthia's Blog said...

    you have a delicious blog.

    Anonymous said...

    Wonderful job, as usual!

    Anonymous said...

    Shari- beautiful! Love the pomegranate seed decoration!

    Cathy said...

    You KNOW that a dessert is a challenge when it makes assembling the Barbie Dream House look easy! I have unending respect and admiration for all of the brave bakers who attempted this. It really seems like the ultimate baking challenge. Yours is absolutely gorgeous! I can't wait to hear how you liked it! Happy New Year to you and your family!!

    pigpigscorner said...

    This is amazing! I want a piece of it now!

    Joy said...

    I love the photo which shows all the layers - delicious.

    Anonymous said...

    of all the yule logs i've seen this week, this is the most lovely and enticing! great work! happy new years. glad to have found you!

    Anonymous said...

    Wow, your yule log looks amazing. I, too, loved the Jacques Torres quote. Spot on. I am impressed by your entry and your entire blog. One of my favorites.

    Andrea said...

    Wow, just wow. Your work is always impressive, but this is just out of this world. Beautiful!

    NKP said...

    So beautiful! Good for you for finding the time to make this incredible confection, I wimped out this month but will DB with you next month.
    Hope you and yours had an awesome holiday, despite the flu.

    Family First said...

    This is soooo mouth-watering! Happy New Year to you!

    Par said...

    Oh god this look so good!
    I just want to grab a fork and dig in.

    Nawal said...

    Bravo !!!
    Happy New Year :-)

    Vegan_Noodle said...

    Your yule log looks amazing!! And I love your photos of the ingredients going into each element... beautiful photography!

    Malak said...

    Looks lovely!