Showing posts with label Class 26. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Class 26. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise (Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis)

Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise (Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis)
This is the best dessert in my Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) cookbook so far! If you love ice cream, whipped cream and the texture of pudding, then this Vanilla Bavarian Cream dessert is for you.

The recipe combines techniques learned earlier in this curriculum. Crème anglaise, the base of ice cream, is also the foundation of this dessert. What gives it structure is gelatin. The gelatin is dissolved in water and later stirred into the cooled crème anglaise mixture that has been lightened with whipped cream. After the gelatin does a bit of its magic and sets the mixture slightly, it's poured into molds and chilled.

The raspberry coulis is just puréed raspberries that have been strained to remove the seeds and stirred with sugar and lemon juice. This sauce is drizzled on the Bavarian cream.

The hardest part about this dessert is getting it out of its mold. {Luckily, I only needed one for a photo! The rest we enjoyed eating out of the plastic, golden containers circa-1950s!}

Recipe: Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise (Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis)

Serves: 6

Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise (Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis) mise en place

Ingredients:

¼ ounce powdered gelatin (about 1 tablespoon)
2 tablespoons cold water

For the Crème Anglaise:
1 cup milk
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 egg yolks
½ cup sugar
1¾ cups heavy cream

For the Raspberry Coulis:
1½ cups raspberries
½ cup confectioner’s sugar
Juice of ½ lemon, strained

You can find the recipe for Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise (Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Spoon and RaspberryTasting Notes
If there's a spectrum, Bavarian cream sits between a mousse and a crème brulée. Its smooth and creamy texture carries the slightly tart raspberry coulis expertly on your taste buds. This is a stunning chilled dessert for summer that you will want to lick clean when no one's looking.
"The orangey sugar cubes at last mooshed, I proceeded to zest and squeeze oranges, soften gelatin, separate eggs — doing it just the way Meryl Streep does in The Hours, by gently juggling them back and forth in my hands, letting the white slip through my fingers into a bowl waiting below. Felt like the way Julia would do it — very cook-y."
— Julie Powell in Julie & Julia, page 108
Links
• Khalyapina Kitchen: Orange Bavarois Recipe
• What's for Lunch, Honey?: Strawberry Bavarian Cream

Next Class
• Velouté Du Barry (Cream of Cauliflower Soup) pages 419-420

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Running total: $1,434.41 + $11.01 = $1,445.42
($1.84 per serving)

Butter used so far: 12 pounds, 20.5 tablespoons

87% complete

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Thursday, June 25, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Soufflé au Comté (Cheese Soufflé)

Soufflé au Comté (Cheese Soufflé)
I've fallen...
I have sunk so low
Sarah McLachlan – Fallen
The word soufflé is irresistible as it blows over your tongue and through your teeth. {It's a word in French that you can say without your French Immersion daughters laughing at your pronunciation.} It means breath, or to take one's breath away. Which is exactly what happens. As you hold your breath, the soufflé takes a breath and falls.

In the unfair world of food, a chocolate soufflé is allowed to take a breath, but a cheesy egg soufflé is not. This soufflé is filled with a cheese called comté (pronounced con-tay) from a terroir that spans the Jura and the Doubs departments in France. This region learned how to transform milk into a cheese that could be preserved and gained status as one of the first cheeses with the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) signature. Unfortunately, I couldn't find this distinguished cheese in my grocery store so I used a humble, but satisfying tangy Swiss cheese instead.

Roux…béchamel…Mornay…meringue are all techniques learned in previous classes that merge in this recipe to make a delicate, diva-like, spectacular dish. First, prepare the milk by bringing it to a boil. Don't turn your back on it for too long or the neglected mixture will punish you with spilled, scorched milk on your stove. While watching the milk, make a roux. Whisk in the hot, un-neglected milk and stir until the sauce becomes thick. Now the sauce is christened a béchamel. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Simmer and whisk for a while to encourage the flavors to develop and avoid burning and sticking. Remove it from the heat and add the cheese. Now it's named Mornay. Next whisk in the yolks and set aside.

The last step is to make a meringue. After the meringue is at its perfect, softly-whipped-but-holding peaks stage, sacrifice some of it (about a third) to lighten the Mornay mixture. Carefully fold in the remaining whites {remembering your Grandma looking over your shoulder as you folded the egg whites into waffle batter when you were just a head taller than the counter, pointing out all the whites that needed hiding}.

Even pouring the mixture into the soufflé dish requires a patient, careful hand. You must avoid dripping any batter on the sides so that the soufflé can climb the dish without touching a patch of burnt-on batter. Then you must tap the dish gently to remove air bubbles. After putting it in the oven, you must not open the oven door while it's baking. And you must not slam the oven door. {Whisper soufflé and blow it a kiss.}

Finally, after baking, hold your breath. Carefully remove the soufflés from the oven. Exhale slowly. {Photograph quickly.} Devour.


Recipe: Soufflé au Comté (Cheese Soufflé)

Serves: 6

Soufflé au Comté (Cheese Soufflé) mise en place

Ingredients:

1¼ cups grated Comte or other imported Swiss cheese such as Gruyere or Emmenthal
1¼ cups milk
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
Salt
White pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg
4 eggs, separated
Unsalted butter, softened, for soufflé mold

You can find the recipe for Soufflé au Comté (Cheese Soufflé) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link). To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Tasting Notes
This is a creamy, airy, and comforting dish that gives you a faint whistle before deflating. Not difficult to make, but impressive if you're courageous, especially if you attempt to add bacon, lobster, or asparagus. Taste and enjoy its fleeting beauty.
"The only thing that will make a soufflé fall is if it knows you are afraid of it."
— James Beard
Links
• 65 sq foot kitchen: Leeks and Gruyère Soufflé, Step-by-Step
• La Tartine Gourmande: Soufflé, if I Blow, Will it Fall?

Next Class
• Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise (Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis)

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $1,425.65 + $8.76 = $1,434.41
($1.46 per serving)

Butter used so far: 12 pounds, 23.5 tablespoons

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Thursday, June 18, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Civet de Lapin à la Française (Rabbit Stew with Red Wine)

Civet de Lapin à la Française (Rabbit Stew with Red Wine)
"The first step in making rabbit stew is catching the rabbit."
— Isaac Asimov
I tasted rabbit for the first time on a restaurant patio in Greece not far from Olympia. It was memorable not only because of the surroundings but also because it was ... a rabbit. I was a little squeamish about making it myself and wouldn't have wanted to break down my lapin from scratch, so I pretended it was chicken and moved past the whole idea of cooking and eating someone's pet.

"Real cooks have hard hearts."
— Marjorie Leet Ford
Sometime last year, I read Thomas Keller's account of "The Importance of Rabbits" in The French Laundry Cooskbook (affiliate link). Keller asked his rabbit supplier to show him how to prepare a rabbit, and his first solo attempt at killing, skinning and eviscerating a rabbit was horrific. "It was a simple lesson," he says after the event, which taught him the importance of each animal's life. From then on, he would not waste any part of the animal.

"I knew that to waste anything was about as close to sin as a chef gets."
— Thomas Keller, The French Laundry Cooskbook (affiliate link)
How to Have Hare in Your Stew
After cutting the rabbit up into pieces, it is marinated overnight in red wine and aromatics. Following this marinating stage, the rabbit is removed (at which time you marvel at its purple complexion), dried, and browned in butter. Next, the vegetables from the marinade are strained out, added to the sauté pan, and sprinkled with flour. This mixture is cooked for a bit before adding the rest of the marinade ingredients. All is brought to a boil and simmered for 2 minutes before putting in a hot 425°F oven for about 45 minutes.

While the rabbit is stewing in the oven, get out all the pots and pans you own! One is for boiling the potatoes until tender. Another is for glazing the pearl onions (or shallots in my case). Finally, a third pan is for crisping the bacon before sautéing the mushrooms. These accessories to the rabbit are delicious on their own. I ended up using cinnamon cap mushrooms that I had purchased at the Ottawa Farmers' Market on the weekend.

After the rabbit is cooked, remove the pieces and set aside while preparing the sauce. Strain the liquid, bring it to a boil and reduce it for a few minutes. Add the rabbit along with the onions, bacon and mushrooms and simmer to marry the flavors for about 5 minutes. Interestingly, the sauce is sometimes thickened with the animal's blood! Since I didn't have any leftover blood in my refrigerator (unlike Ms. Glaze at culinary school) I just let it simmer to reduce and thicken without any coagulating agents.

While the sauce simmers, I toasted the buttered bread for croutons. Finally, it is served with a garnish of the ever-common parsley.

Recipe: Civet de Lapin à la Française (Rabbit Stew with Red Wine)

Serves: 6

Civet de Lapin à la Française (Rabbit Stew with Red Wine) mise en place

Ingredients:

3¾-pound rabbit

For the Marinade:
1 medium carrot, sliced
1 medium onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 whole cloves
20 peppercorns
1 Bouquet Garni
4 cups dry red wine
3 tablespoons cognac
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

For the Stew:
7 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 pounds waxy potatoes (red or white)
36 pearl onions
1 tablespoon sugar
5 ounces slab bacon, sliced ¼ inch thick
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ pound button or large, quartered mushrooms, trimmed, rinsed and dried

For the Croutons:
3 slices firm white bread, crusts removed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
You can find the recipe for Civet de Lapin à la Française (Rabbit Stew with Red Wine) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link) or here. To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Serve with a rich red wine either from Burgundy or the Côtes du Rhône.

Tasting Notes
It has been several years since I tasted rabbit, and I wasn't expecting to like it as much as I did. It was moist and tender, definitely not gamey. It doesn't taste like chicken or pork. It has the meatiness of something in the middle, although the meat on the bone was a portion size fit for a petite person watching her girlish figure. Plus it's lean. In fact, it's leaner than beef, pork, or chicken. The rich, savory, slightly salty sauce and the mushroom-onion-bacon medley were the stars on the plate. And if you don't want to pull a rabbit out of your pot, use chicken.

Next Class
• Soufflé au Comté (Cheese Soufflé) pages 82-83

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $1,384.52 + $18.15 (rabbit) + $22.98 (other ingredients) = $1,425.65
($6.85 per serving)

Butter used so far: 12 pounds, 20.5 tablespoons

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